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The Pub For General Automotive Related Talk |
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#1 | ||
Virtuous Bogan (TM)
![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: TAS
Posts: 27,559
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Was wondering if anyone had any good/bad experience with headlight restoration kits?
Ive seen links for people using anything from toothpaste to high end kits but was curious to hear from anyone here who has used them with success. Or, I have been quoted $60 per side for a "pro" to have a go. Any links to successful products would be appreciated. The Repco kit below has been recommended thus far. in particular the requirement for a sealant; https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care...light%20restor
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#2 | |||
Regular...with metamusal
![]() Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Geeeloong
Posts: 6,385
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Quote:
ask Linz as he is the 'god' re headlights ![]() |
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#3 | ||
Experienced Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Australasia
Posts: 7,537
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I have done some restoration years ago with an EL falcon by using wet & dry sand paper from 1200 up to 2000 grit then using Autosol metal polish for final finish which gave the headlights "that new look" which certainly works.
This was done on my daughters car when the headlights were deemed unworthy with them looking terribly faded. Search through AFF as there is topic on headlight restoration as this is where I got my info from. |
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#4 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Perth
Posts: 1,661
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Kit's aren't much good (unless you have nothing - then you'll still need to buy a buffer etc).
There's a few threads around with everything to a 6 step process, to just a 1 step 15 sec wipe with acetone. What you need depends on how far gone it is. Rough and thick layers of yellowing you need to start with 800grit wet If it's smoother and not so bad start with 1000 grit or 1200 grit then 1200, 1500, 2000, 3000grit if you can get it *(sanding each in a different direction, each stage you are just sanding the previous coarser papers scratch marks out, sanding different direction allow you to see the previous scratch marks better and to know when to stop and move on) Finish with a machine buffer (so need the tool and a 2 or 3" foam pad and cutting compound and then polishing compound). *If you can't get 3000grit start with a medium/coarse cutting compound, if you used 3000grit you could probably go straight to a polish or something like meguire's ultimate compound. Clear coat spray (or regularly wax them). E: If you don't already have all the above laying around, if a pro quoted $60 it will be the cheaper option. Though I'd remove the headlights at least and let a pro do it properly (all the way to the edges, no chance of acrylic clear coat over spray) Buying kits is probably the most expensive way to go about it half arsed. Last edited by oldel; 14-04-2022 at 08:35 PM. |
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#5 | ||
Mad Scientist!
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 2,840
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https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/ca...storation-kits
I was thinking of giving the cheaper Turtle wax one ago. |
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#6 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Perth, Northern Suburbs
Posts: 4,881
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The problem with "Kits" is that they promote the idea of simplicity. That you buy the magic kit, follow their easy steps, and voila..
In reality all the kits do is give you the tools you'll probably need. It basically comes down to three steps:
What you do for each step, and how far you go, really comes down to the extent of the damage, how perfect you want it, and how much elbow grease you have available. I achieved a passable result (on lenses that weren't super bad, using a mixture of toothpaste, baking soda, and an electric toothbrush. If the yellowing is bad, you can start with wet'n'dry, and carefully hand sand. (Don't be tempted to use a disk) In theory you can start as course as you feel comfortable with, and work your way up, but personally I wouldn't feel confident going with anything less than 1200. Once you've gone as fine as you can go, use something like a lambswool pad to buff it. Alternatively you can use some form of cutting paste. Once you're satisfied with the finish, a sealer will fill any micro-scratches, and provide lasting protection. (But obviously sealing a sub-par surface, will just seal-in the scratches and damaged surface.) If you're not comfortable using a spray lacquer, you could also use a clear wax. |
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#7 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hervey Bay
Posts: 5,212
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I tried this Philips one with pretty reasonable success.
https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/produc...estoration-kit Even though it says only can be sent in UK they still sent me one. Get another 20% off onto of the already discounted price too. Fast delivery too. The cleaning liquids supplied are pretty good, they get alot of rubbish by themselves. Pretty skimpy on the amount of sandpaper provided though. I stocked up on some wet and dry before I started. I bought this one because it was the only kit at the time that included a UV protectant at the finishing step. Seems the UV protectant is a bit more common now. But regardless of what kit you buy, make sure it has some sort of UV protectant as the final step. Otherwise the lights will go yellow in 6 to 12 months time again. Wax doesn't cut it like some people try to claim. Even then, overall, its not a long term solution. |
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#8 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Perth, Northern Suburbs
Posts: 4,881
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Only if they were exceptionally poor quality knockoffs to begin with. The worst example was getting a headlight replaced after an accident, and the "new" (aftermarket) headlight ended up looking worse than the remaining original.
Quote:
When in doubt, I tend to go with reputable quality. If you are completely satisfied with the finish, then I would recommend a coat of Dulux Duramax. |
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#9 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 6,891
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Never considered that. Would that affect how the light is distributed past the lens?
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Rides (past and present) Current: 2004 Ford Falcon 5.4L 3v Barra 220, Manual Past: Mitsubishi Sigma (m), Toyota Seca (m), Toyota Seca SX (m), Toyota Vienta V6 (m), Toyota Soarer 4L v8 (a), BA XR8 ute (m), T3 TE50 (m), BMW Z4 (m) AFF motto - If contrary views trigger, please use ignore button. ![]() |
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#10 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Brighton, Adelaide
Posts: 3,972
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I have rubbed back and polished a few set's of light's over the year's
I give the polished lense a couple of light coat's of plastic adhesion primer, then a couple of 2K clear coat's for long life This stuff last's for a while too and is cheap https://www.bunnings.com.au/trojan-h...n-kit_p0191116
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Money Talks, but all i ever hear is it saying Goodbye!! |
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#11 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,475
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Better to replace the whole headlight.
It will be perfect then ![]() |
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#12 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 21,848
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This fellow’s video shows the different effects of clearcoat and films on a re-polished lens.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UG54xt56uZo |
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#13 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,475
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By the time you buy those products, you can get a new headlight assembly.
I like the protection film but it is $53 for a piece of clear film.. It also depends on your make and model. If your car has one of those smart headlights which cost around $1000 per headlight, then you may give this method a go. Quote:
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#15 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,475
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Makes sense in that case.
If you do get a new headlight assembly, better to get films as well then as it seems to be the best option.. Or if you want to protect your existing (non-yellow stained) factory ones. I just carnauba wax mine every time I wash it. They seem to be ok so far except the little rock chips... |
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#16 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hervey Bay
Posts: 5,212
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Quote:
https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/al...x1-5mm-2pc-lsg |
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#17 | ||
Cabover nut
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Onsite Eastcoast
Posts: 10,827
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Where did it all go wrong, older stuff never had this problem, bust a 5-7in sealed beam and replace it with a cheap locally made new one.
Mind you we couldn't see anything driving in the dark anyway.
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heritagestonemason.com/Fordlouisvillerestoration In order that the labour of centuries past may not be in vain during the centuries to come...... D. Diderot 1752
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#18 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 6,891
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Quote:
__________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Rides (past and present) Current: 2004 Ford Falcon 5.4L 3v Barra 220, Manual Past: Mitsubishi Sigma (m), Toyota Seca (m), Toyota Seca SX (m), Toyota Vienta V6 (m), Toyota Soarer 4L v8 (a), BA XR8 ute (m), T3 TE50 (m), BMW Z4 (m) AFF motto - If contrary views trigger, please use ignore button. ![]() |
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#19 | |||
Cabover nut
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Onsite Eastcoast
Posts: 10,827
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Quote:
Don't know never done newer headlights.
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heritagestonemason.com/Fordlouisvillerestoration In order that the labour of centuries past may not be in vain during the centuries to come...... D. Diderot 1752
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#20 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 6,891
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Quote:
Actually, looking back at that video, he didn't sand and polish after clear coating. When applying clear to car paint, you need to sand and polish to bring out the shine. I wonder if that will improve the refraction issue.
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Rides (past and present) Current: 2004 Ford Falcon 5.4L 3v Barra 220, Manual Past: Mitsubishi Sigma (m), Toyota Seca (m), Toyota Seca SX (m), Toyota Vienta V6 (m), Toyota Soarer 4L v8 (a), BA XR8 ute (m), T3 TE50 (m), BMW Z4 (m) AFF motto - If contrary views trigger, please use ignore button. ![]() |
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#21 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 21,848
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Acrylic or nitro clears (1K) will discolour much quicker than a good 2K.
I’d say that the chemical bond happening between the clear (any type) and the PC lense, will also generate refraction. It matters less with car body paint when used on car parts as we’re not looking through it like a window; in one side and out the other. It makes sense to me, that the RI of a clear film is closer than any regular clear coat, to that of a PC lense. |
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