Can anyone guess what this is for?

NZ XR6 · 30-11-2016, 06:40 PM

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sailaway · 30-11-2016, 06:44 PM

In relation to what?

Is it found in a Mondy or associated packaging?

NZ XR6 · 30-11-2016, 06:51 PM

It's something I made for working on the Mondeo. A bit rough but it does the job.

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**Raptor** · 30-11-2016, 07:22 PM

To place over the body seam when you jack it up with your hydraulic Jack.

I have something similar for SWMBOs VW.

Those from colder climates than ours use ice hockey pucks.

NZ XR6 · 30-11-2016, 07:47 PM

Yes, that's it. I initially used a block of wood under the seam until I managed to bend it when I jacked up the car too quickly.

I might check out the ice hockey pucks.

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rondeo · 01-12-2016, 08:28 AM

I've been using discs of 3/4 plywood (no groove) in the trolley jack head. The seam just sinks in a bit.

The jack makers are a bit behind on this one. Some of the rubber pads look like they'd slice nicely in two. Not intended for sills I guess.

I've assumed the vehicle weight should be taken on the edge of the seam, so the groove depth would be about 15mm. NZ your blocks don't seem to have been touching there?

DZFord · 01-12-2016, 11:47 AM

http://protechproducts.com/index.php...ory&path=35_37

There are these too

NZ XR6 · 01-12-2016, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rondeo

I've been using discs of 3/4 plywood (no groove) in the trolley jack head. The seam just sinks in a bit.

The jack makers are a bit behind on this one. Some of the rubber pads look like they'd slice nicely in two. Not intended for sills I guess.

I've assumed the vehicle weight should be taken on the edge of the seam, so the groove depth would be about 15mm. NZ your blocks don't seem to have been touching there?

Yes, I tried rubber pads but the seam cut straight through them. Same thing happened to soft wood (pine) blocks. I haven't tried ply though.

I had assumed that the weight was taken by the seam, but 3 of them have bent as a result of being used as lifting points. The shape of the scissor jack head is interesting - it looks to me as though the weight is taken on the inside of the sill.

So that is how I've designed the wooden block, and it seems fine. But I could easily be wrong!

I hate to mention the Accord for the second time this week, but the jacking points under the sills are far more substantial, and can be lowered directly onto axle stands. Or even dropped, as happened when the trolley jack release valve stuck!

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NZ XR6 · 01-12-2016, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DZFord

http://protechproducts.com/index.php...ory&path=35_37

There are these too

Nice.

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Vortex-98 · 01-12-2016, 04:44 PM

What are you lifting a truck?
You can jack it up from the suspension bolt front an rear just don't use the tips of the jacks plate,an don't use ply use a solid block of wood about 3 in high x 4in wide.you can bend the double plate of the subframe if its not forward enough closer to the wheel

NZ XR6 · 02-12-2016, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vortex-98

What are you lifting a truck?
You can jack it up from the suspension bolt front an rear just don't use the tips of the jacks plate,an don't use ply use a solid block of wood about 3 in high x 4in wide.you can bend the double plate of the subframe if its not forward enough closer to the wheel

Yeah, if I could get the trolley jack under the car. But I do put the jackstands under those bolts.

The Haynes manual suggests lifting the car under the centre of the front crossmember. You'd need a very special jack to reach that far!

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**aussiblue** · 02-12-2016, 10:09 PM

And these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Premium-S...YAAOSwImRYG08F and http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HELI-GUY-...3D252639420309

**aussiblue** · 02-12-2016, 10:10 PM

And you could make these yourself http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HELI-GUY-...3D252639420309

cobrin · 02-12-2016, 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NZ XR6

The Haynes manual suggests lifting the car under the centre of the front crossmember. You'd need a very special jack to reach that far!

That's what I use and with that special jack you talked about lol, was last years xmass present. I see Auto1 has the same 2T twin cylinder aluminium jack in green (WTD) and $30 cheaper, mine is red.

NZ XR6 · 03-12-2016, 04:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cobrin

That's what I use and with that special jack you talked about lol, was last years xmass present. I see Auto1 has the same 2T twin cylinder aluminium jack in green (WTD) and $30 cheaper, mine is red.

image

Do you have a link thanks?

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sailaway · 03-12-2016, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NZ XR6

Do you have a link thanks?

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Ah but which one?
https://www.autoone.com.au/catalogue...gue/16#page/12
https://www.autoone.com.au/

Vortex-98 · 03-12-2016, 01:14 PM

you could just use a standrd scissor jack to give you some clearance then slide in the trolley jack.. don't forget to crack the wheelnuts first (hate wen that happens)an grease the wheelnut thread when you do them back up...

cobrin · 03-12-2016, 02:11 PM

top left $249 aluminium 2T, WTDHF20SA. it fitted when my suspension was sad and tired at it's lowest point, 3 to 4 pumps and it's off the ground. It's heavier than the typical single cylinder hydraulic jack but it does everything else easier/quicker and for that I'm grateful. Mine is red and sports a different brand but it's identical.

Word of warning if when you assemble the handle to it and start to pump the cylinder and the arm doesn't lift, remove the rubber fill plug on the main cylinder. I just started to pump it and it wouldn't lift. Figured out removing the plug to check the fluid level helps bleed it and away you go. I cycled it three times to make sure air was bled and it's been good ever since.