Common Problems with the AU?? - Page 12

XR Davo · 16-11-2006, 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mechan1k

Damn ... I have a spare BEM sitting at home ... could have had it for $20.
I know an auto electrician that can reprogram the BEM as well.

Thanks for the offer man, yeah if it happens again will definately look at a second hand unit. A lesson has been learnt.

Fairlane63 · 10-12-2006, 09:57 PM

Interesting, I have a slow flashing of the indicator dash lights when I lock the doors and the right hand rear door won't lock........anyone know of an easy fix?

Elements · 10-12-2006, 11:11 PM

Have an AUII S/SR. Had it for 200km

1. The battery holder in the remote comes off. 10 min soldering job (if that!) and they're both working A-OK.

2. Driving along, and then all of a sudden there was no power steering fluid. Wretched noise, no P/S. Tightened bolts, filled it up and on my way (happened less than 3 hours after I got it - the rack was replaced by Ford about 50,000km ago.....).

3. Rough idle. Under investigation.

BAxtER · 14-12-2006, 12:09 AM

i have an AU2 forte DEC/2000...its been a great car only just hit 55000kms
the only problem it has had is when new there was a noise coming from the rear suspension, ford dismantled and rebuilt the back right under warranty and everything good ever since
BUT YES WE GET THAT POWER WINDOW PROBLEM ..the drivers side switch wont work sometimes for the passengers window...ps lowndes was robbed

**Mechan1k** · 14-12-2006, 09:13 AM

Dirty contacts under the power window switch ... pop the panel out of the door and clean the contacts underneath ... this SHOULD fix it ... other than that ... the plug might have moved and lost connection too.

The Monty · 17-12-2006, 12:02 AM

Is this that whooshy sound I always get from my brakes? I fso, I gently apply my handbrake so it engages, but doesnt actually slow you down, and release it a couple of times, and it goes away.

nedkelly · 29-12-2006, 05:28 PM

Hi guys new to forum and thought I'd add to the list, not much to add though.

I've had my AUI since new (Dec 98) now with 212000k's on it and going strong, problems I've had are all small and I think mostly due to wear and tear.

Rust mostly around the boot struts (in the corners below the rear window) and in the boot where the spoiler was badly fitted (apparently they fixed this under warranty but it was never really fixed, the boot still leaks to this day).

Steering rack recall.

Window rubbers on the doors shrinking due to the car never being garaged in its life (and I live within 1k of the beach).

Suspension is due to be replaced for the first time, there are a few clunks etc. just never have the money to do it...

The small problems were the headlight switch broke (pretty weak part) cost about $2 to fix, and the rear seat latches both broke but I fixed them myself with some heavy fishing line.

And that's it, without a doupt the AU is the best car I've ever had, and it's out lasted my mates 3 commodores in 8 years, not a single rattle in the interior yet and in 8 years has barely cost a thing in terms of maintenance.

For anyone having doubts about AU's while reading this thread, have no doubt at all, AU's are IMO one of the most cost effective and reliable cars ever built.

Cheers!

mailmann · 01-01-2007, 07:11 PM

Smart lock cycle up-down when locking after washing.Trip to ford dealership.Water intruding into drivers door was the culprit here,fixed under warranty.54,000k
Drivers side window switch replaced.80,000k.$41.00 {NOT COVERED**
Power steering rack leaking.Replaced under extended warranty.80,000k.
Wheel alignment difficult to set,Fitted caster/camber kit to left front.80.000k.$175.00 [Beaurepairs]
Front brakes disks cause some drumming when under severe application!Possibly warping a bit.Will have this looked at next service.So all and all i am happy with my au ford and actually prefere it to the BA all but 1 regaurd,Never did like the AU headlights.Am just about to fix that with a set of alteesa after market units.

Cheers1

mailmann · 27-08-2007, 04:44 PM

Replaced split header tank,79,000.k.About $50.00 from Ford.
Machined front rotors,81,000.k.About $300.00 with new pads!
Boot struts loosing pressure,on the 2 do list.
Replace leaking water pump.92,000.k.Under harrier warranty.
So that just about it i hope.I have had just about every 1 of the most common failures seen on this forum so it should be plain sailing for my AU from now on!LOL.

**Mechan1k** · 05-01-2007, 08:24 AM

With your power window switches ... pull the door trims .. and pop the switches out ... the contacts discolour and ... well ... lose contact ... just clean them up a bit with some wet and dry and plug it back in ... and then try them. Common issue.

I had to so it with my driver's door switches and they worked perfectly after that.

Whilie you have your door trims off ... run some graphite powder along the window guides ... this helps the windows glides easier over them and puts less stress on the window motors as well ... just easier to do it while you have them off doing something else.

maxpowerx · 09-01-2007, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mechan1k

With your power window switches ... pull the door trims .. and pop the switches out ... the contacts discolour and ... well ... lose contact ... just clean them up a bit with some wet and dry and plug it back in ... and then try them. Common issue.

I had to so it with my driver's door switches and they worked perfectly after that.

Whilie you have your door trims off ... run some graphite powder along the window guides ... this helps the windows glides easier over them and puts less stress on the window motors as well ... just easier to do it while you have them off doing something else.

Thanks for the info on the window switches, they now work.

StAndArdAU · 05-01-2007, 01:42 PM

my roof trim is pulling away above the drivers side head. Any one else had this? AU S1 forte.

also i was quoted around $300 to fix as it requires removing the entire roof trim... comments please?!!?

Benn · 30-11-2007, 11:09 PM

had the same trouble with my ute.
removed the lining, cleaned back and sprayed with black paint. Came up sweet.

**Mechan1k** · 05-01-2007, 01:46 PM

Speak to Kenz ... he replaced his rooflining himself ... and used suede ... looks bloody good ... i think he got all the material from Spotlight cheap. Apparently not too hard either.

StAndArdAU · 05-01-2007, 02:58 PM

cheers..., i shall search for Kenz!!

**Mechan1k** · 05-01-2007, 03:05 PM

Look in the Workshop section .. he has his 1-tonner ute in there

andrew_osg · 09-01-2007, 08:07 AM

Hi All,

The biggest issue i am having is the stoopid tail light globe holders, the brake/tail holder seems to get so hot it starts to melt causing the globes to sit wrong and eventually causes a minor earthing problem.

I replaced my globes with LED'S causing the cruse control to stop working so i changed back and am due to purchase a new light loom again

:

To the makers of the holders: :thebirds:

To the person who has a solution which isn't LED's

:

**Whoosha** · 09-01-2007, 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrew_osg

Hi All,

The biggest issue i am having is the stoopid tail light globe holders, the brake/tail holder seems to get so hot it starts to melt causing the globes to sit wrong and eventually causes a minor earthing problem.

I replaced my globes with LED'S causing the cruse control to stop working so i changed back and am due to purchase a new light loom again

:

To the makers of the holders: :thebirds:

To the person who has a solution which isn't LED's

:

change the Loom to the ba loom its a harder plastic.. thats what we have done on boyh our AUs no more probs,

andrew_osg · 09-01-2007, 11:58 AM

Thanks Whoosha, Will do

maxpowerx · 16-01-2007, 11:02 PM

I've just been noticing a slight thump, thump, thump, thump noise. The faster I go the quicker it happens. I'm just assuming it's a wheel bearing issue.

MRJUCY · 27-02-2007, 10:32 PM

My jack snapped the other day dropping my car on the ground, has anyone else ever had this happen?

It looked like it had never been used previously & is no in four pieces, I was thinking of sending it back to Ford with any angry letter, not that I think they'd care but it would be good to get it off my chest.
I could have been badly hurt if I didn't always keep the spare under the car when jacking.

Bucknaked · 01-06-2007, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nikos

I was pulling my wheels off the other day, and I was just about to put the jack under the car when I noticed something. The main pin that supports the scissor lift (in the middle of the X) was snapped, and bent into a C shape! Someone had obviously snapped it, and put the jack back in the boot. Real smart. Lucky I hadn't needed it in an emergency.

Anyways, I needed to get my wheels off so I hunted around and found a nice looking bolt that fitted snuggly where the pin did. Started winding the jack, and about halfway up I hear BANG and the car drops an inch. Scared the SH!T out of me!

I managed to lower the car safely down, and found that the bolt had snapped and bent into the same C shape as the original pin! Talk about a poorly designed jack.

Has anyone else had this happen?

It happened to me. Jack looked like it had never been used. The centre thread was in a mess. I thought maybe it was just my jack. First time I've heard this happen to anyone else.

I took the jack back to my dealer and they sent it back to ford and they gave me a new one. Only problem was is that it took over a week to get a new jack. They had to check that it was covered under waranty.

:

Laminge · 27-02-2007, 10:59 PM

I would have cared, no one wants a Juicy Mr Juicy

Send em a letter with pictures of the Jack, though no one should depend on car jacks

MRJUCY · 27-02-2007, 11:10 PM

Glad to know someone does.

:

It was a road side flat so I didn't have much choice of what to use but the one that came with the car but I'm glad I always take the extra precaution of using the spare as a makeshift axle stand.

mike4118 · 03-03-2007, 07:25 PM

Hi people just a couple of things on my au1 fairmont ghia.
1. Climate control fan keeps running even with ignition off. New fan resistor.
2. Coolant header tank split. New tank from ford.
3. Lack of power. Might be 300000 plus klms of hard work.

But other than that best car i've ever had and will keep for along time to come.

**Mechan1k** · 03-03-2007, 07:28 PM

Yeah ... I have a hairline crack in my header tank as well ... off to the wrecker to get another one.

I should have kept the old dirty AU one ... instead of getting a BA header tank ... LOL
Oh well ... at least the wreckers have near new ones for a 1/4 of the price of Ford.

lohnro · 23-03-2007, 03:19 PM

My passenger side front window is stuck down. I am trying to remove the window from the brackets that drive it up and down without much success. I am getting voltage to the motor but it is not turning. I reckon the motor is shot but need to get the window off it first.
Anyone got any ideas on how to get it up somehow before it rains. You can bet it will rain like mad tonight.

congo3sr · 23-03-2007, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lohnro

Anyone got any ideas on how to get it up somehow

VIAGRA
sorry,I couldnt help myself

:

lohnro · 04-03-2007, 10:21 AM

I am trying to remove the passenger door trim on my AU2 and seem to be missing a fixing point. The central locking is allowing the passenger door open even when the car is locked. I am suspecting water has got in but can't get the trim off to see. Grateful for any advice.

**Mechan1k** · 04-03-2007, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lohnro

I am trying to remove the passenger door trim on my AU2 and seem to be missing a fixing point. The central locking is allowing the passenger door open even when the car is locked. I am suspecting water has got in but can't get the trim off to see. Grateful for any advice.

If you are trying to lock the vehicle ... and one lock is staying open (and you get a grinding noise from one of the doors ... it's a failed lock actuator in that door.

When it comes to removing door trims ... I know about the front doors (as I own a ute and that's all I have taken off) ... there are 2 10mm bolts ... one behind a round cover/cap .... and the other is behind the door handle itself ... you need to pry the backing of the door handle off (flatblade screwdriver and a cloth) ... but gentle .. but give it a bit of force ... if you get my drift.

It will eventually come off ... sometime 2 flatblades help in this process.

The rest of the screws around the door trim ... and there is a screw under the power window switches (if you have them) that holds a tab into the door frame as well.

That's about all that I can think of.