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22-06-2013, 10:34 AM | #1 | ||
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Hi Everyone,
I've never tried deep staging before.Once the second staging light comes on, how far forward can I move before I'm over the start line line. I really dont want to go over the line and have to reverse into the line. Just imagine reversing into the line, load it up to 2000 rpm and off we go..... in reverse.Oops, forgot to put it in 1st. Cheers |
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22-06-2013, 09:50 PM | #3 | ||
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Interested to know what deep staging is too. For some reason I thought it was when you go through the first light then roll into second light (both lights on) then roll forward a bit more so the first light disappears and only the second is on?
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23-06-2013, 07:06 AM | #4 | ||
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Shallow staging , just bringing on the 2nd light , gives you slightly better rollout , and also a little more room for error cutting a decent light . As opposed to deep staging and making it easier to red light in competition .
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23-06-2013, 09:19 AM | #5 | ||
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Ah thanks for that dieseltrain79.
I used to drop the clutch at the second last light before the green, and consistently get 0.6 reaction time. At the time the aim was perfect reaction time (0.4 sec) and someone told me to deep stage and do all the same things taking off. It did shave off that little bit of time and got a bit closer to 0.4. Deep staging allowed me to eliminate that little bit of roll out time, but increased chances of red lighting... |
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23-06-2013, 09:35 AM | #6 | ||
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shallowing staging can give a higher mph and slower reaction time and 60 ft time but safer against red lighting, deep staging can give a quicker et, better reaction time, quicker 60 ft but more at risk of red lighting
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26-06-2013, 04:14 PM | #9 | |||
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Same with ET? Personally I have a better 60ft with shallow staging due to the extra roll out before breaking the beams. I find this improved 60ft carries through to provide a quicker ET and MPH> Pretty much cost me 2 tenths on ET when Deep Staging. As always I have so much to learn and understand about this great sport. Last edited by Giant; 26-06-2013 at 04:22 PM. |
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26-06-2013, 05:08 PM | #10 | ||
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If you cant cut a good light in DYO with 2 lights and car can be held well then deep staging has its benefits from experience.
If she cant hold the inertia under stall for too long though a smart racer will burn you see this and use to ones advantage as ugly as this tactic can be.
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26-06-2013, 05:12 PM | #11 | ||
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Once burnt twice shy> Good reason to only get up on the stall when you have too
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26-06-2013, 07:44 PM | #12 | ||
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Putting the top bulb out can make all the difference between a 14.00 and a 13.99 if you had a set target you wanted to achieve perse'
I just bring on the second bulb and always stage last so i can get up on the stall in my own terms... I had a few red bulbs last year tho' 3 of then were less than .02 of a sec, oh so close but no quickcash that Willowbank offers up for the Perfect Reaction Time |
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27-06-2013, 06:43 AM | #13 | |||
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27-06-2013, 11:21 AM | #14 | ||
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27-06-2013, 11:50 AM | #15 | ||
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27-06-2013, 11:58 AM | #16 | |||
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From everything I have tried and read deep staging only reduces roll out which can improve RT as less distance is travelled to break the beams. The human reaction time and vehicle reaction is still the same just the vehicle travels less distance which reduces the time required to break the beam, which results in a better recorded RT. |
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27-06-2013, 08:01 PM | #17 | ||
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OK then lets say If you deep stage and cut a .15 light and run a 11.00 ET you run a 11.15 overall.
If you shallow stage in the same car and do all the same things your but your et may improve to 10.98 based on run up as you say,but add a slower due to longer rollout for RT you get a .18 light = 11.16ET overall.Thats how the slower ET comes about. |
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27-06-2013, 08:49 PM | #19 | ||
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Doesn't change the fact though...no not many race Pro Tree but thats how it happens.
I have seen guys who cut .500 lights in the 90's still only cut .500 lights today.Not easy to react faster but by deep staging you can better RT as you shorten your rollout and react the same.Much easier to do in a consistent car. |
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27-06-2013, 10:37 PM | #20 | |||
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28-06-2013, 12:09 AM | #21 | ||
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My understanding is:
RT starts when light turns green and stops when you break stage light. ET starts when you break stage light and stops at finish line. To win heads up racing is first across finish line. To win DYO is closest to dial in without breaking. If both break im not sure... |
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28-06-2013, 01:46 AM | #22 | |||
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28-06-2013, 07:06 AM | #23 | ||
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28-06-2013, 10:49 AM | #24 | |||
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BmJ89ujoLVM watch the pass at 36sec, the car cut's a 2-sec light and run's an 8.40, so in reality it really ran a 6.4 cos we need to take 2-sec off for reaction time? |
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28-06-2013, 12:43 PM | #25 | ||
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I think mex gets that Paully i took it as he is referring to overall distance travelled within a select time frame ...
LOL Or in other words if we are both on a 9.00 dial in and i cut a .400 light and you cut a .500 light and we both run identical 9.00's then i theoretically cross the line at 9.00 but you would be a 1/10th behind due to reaction time so therefore a 9.10 the time taken to travel the same distance ? also willowbank used to go off a .400 light now on the timeslip it is .000 so old days a .399 was a red light and a .410 is 10 thou away from perfect... |
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28-06-2013, 01:14 PM | #26 | |||
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28-06-2013, 01:16 PM | #28 | ||
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28-06-2013, 01:30 PM | #29 | ||
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Yeah DYO is a different game, still trying to get it...
In DYO if both run their dial in times, then first across the finish line wins! (as long as they dont red light). |
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28-06-2013, 01:57 PM | #30 | ||
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DYO only difference is that you have to run as close to your Dial in as possible without breaking out. RT still plays the same role.
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