Coolant..... Which type/brand do you use?

rocket67 · 23-09-2008, 08:08 PM

Many years ago i worked as a radiator repairer and witnessed a lot of radiators blocked up with all sorts of mud and gunk from people using tap water in their cars cooling system. This was in Adelaide - worst water in the country!

A chap in the office had bought a new XY Fairmont about 5 years previously, and had always used rainwater and soluble oil in the cooling system. He was about to go on a country trip and so we pulled the radiator out of the car to clean it out for him. We were amazed to see that the radiator was still like new inside, and had zero blockage!

That was before aluminium heads were popular.

The popular coolant back then was BP coolant. It was very thin bodied and would find its way out of any weak spot in the system.
Since then there have been many brands of coolant released onto the market, mostly based on glycol.

Does anybody have any favorite brands that they use? And if so - why?

Is the rainwater/ soluble oil still the best combination?

Rocket.

Yellow_Festiva · 23-09-2008, 09:38 PM

Don't know what soluble oil is??

I use a good branded pre-mixed long life coolant such as Nulon or Tectaloy. I do a thorough flush every 2 years or 50,000km and put a cleaner through beforehand.

That seems to work pretty well. NEVER let tap water go anywhere near the radiator...

rocket67 · 23-09-2008, 10:50 PM

Soluble oil is a type of oil that will mix with water.

It is sold in most auto accessory shops, and comes in a small container - about 250 mls.

A 6cyl engine would require about 250mls added to the system upon refilling after a radiator cleanout or flush. When first added the water will be a milky colour. As it settles it will put a very thin coating of oil onto all internal surfaces of the cooling system and a very positive aspect is that it will lubricate the water pump bearing - therefore extending the life of the water pump. The water will become clear after a few days.

Yellow_Festiva, i agree totally with you that you need to use rainwater or demineralised water in your cooling system.

As a radiator repairer - i am concerned about all this talk about using a wetting agent to cure overheating problems.
The simple fact is that if your car is overheating - the only cure is to have your radiator cleaned out by a radiator specialist. No wetting agent can fix a radiator that has blocked tubes!
Of course if a car continues to overheat and the radiator is clear - then it is time to check things like thermostats, head gaskets etc.

The reason i have brought all this up is to make people aware that good quality water and soluble oil is all that is required to keep your cooling system clean and in good working order. It is " old school " and it works!

Rocket.

FPV GT40 · 24-09-2008, 12:37 AM

Here is another option, and you get to keep the nice green coloured fluid in your radiator....been using it for years and years and will not use anything else.

Coolants containing Glycol are less efficient at transferring heat than just plain water, so use water (distilled) and Nulon Ultra Cool.

Ultra Cool contains no glycol and as such is recommended for use in motor sport applications. Because R45 contains no glycol it is more thermally efficient. In other words, it transfers heat more efficiently than glycol based coolants.

Read more here : http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php...ame=Ultra_Cool

Been using it for years, the best product out there after 5 years the radiator looks like new, and do not forget to fit a Tefbar radiator filter to stop the clogging especially when fitting a rebuild motor, as they will release a lot of scale when put back into operation clogging your new shiny radiator within weeks. Thisn is why a lot of frshly rebuild motors will develop overheating problems.

schnoods · 24-09-2008, 01:13 AM

I normally but a can or 2 of concetrate inhibitor (castrol brand) and mix it with water, good and convinient but also very good.

Tectaloy is good stuff too, no worries with that stuff.

XR Martin · 24-09-2008, 01:42 AM

Pretty sure that soluble oil stuff you're talking about doesnt have anywhere near the freezing resistance of regular Ethyl Glycol coolant.

You do realise that Ethyl Glycol is a water soluble oil as well don't you?

I think 'soluble oil' maybe alright for your early 20th century period car, to keep originality, but coolants have come a long way since... If it was so good car manufacturers would be using it. Apart from that, stick to using it with your cutting tools.

prydey · 24-09-2008, 08:19 AM

tectaloy gold concentrate for me. been using it for nearly 15yrs with no drama's.

InfernoSR · 24-09-2008, 08:30 AM

What the heck happened to my post i made yesterday? its somehow managed to vanish...

I am a Radiator Specialist and have been in the game for 10years now... just to give you an idea of my level of training...

Soluable oil and water is extremly BAD for cooling systems that have any part of alloy in them... from radiators, to heads, thermostate housings (upper and/or lower) and water pump to name just a couple... the issue with the oil is that it is impure and deposits impurities into the alloy when under pressure and heat. Cast iron/steel isnt as much of an issue due to the quality of the casting material, and its higher standard of casting.

I for one always used and sold natra/Adrad branded Conditioner, which turned out to be a relabelled Tectaloy Gold and thus, sold cheaper. Conditioner whould always be replaced every 12 months... Clean looking tap water is more than fine for road cars with a concentrate conditioner as above mentioned.

Also a well used flushing agent i highely recommend is called Washing Soda... it can easily be bought in the supermarkets... more on my DIY tutorial is elsewhere in this forum :P

rocket67 · 24-09-2008, 09:39 AM

Some great posts appearing from qualified people.

BLUEPRINT - I see you are located in Bathurst NSW. The water quality up there must be good. Unfortunately - where we live the water contains lots of impurities. Tap water is not good for cooling systems. Demineralised water is available very cheaply in supermarkets.

As i previously wrote, my experience was with cars that had cast heads. We own a couple of Mustangs and will use the soluble oil and demineralised water in them.

For modern cars there are many additives/ conditioners available. The Nulon website shows a good range.

So the question remains - Which one is a standout performer?
So far the Nulon Ultracool looks pretty good to me.

Rocket.

InfernoSR · 24-09-2008, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rocket67

Some great posts appearing from qualified people.

BLUEPRINT - I see you are located in Bathurst NSW. The water quality up there must be good. Unfortunately - where we live the water contains lots of impurities. Tap water is not good for cooling systems. Demineralised water is available very cheaply in supermarkets.

As i previously wrote, my experience was with cars that had cast heads. We own a couple of Mustangs and will use the soluble oil and demineralised water in them.

For modern cars there are many additives/ conditioners available. The Nulon website shows a good range.

So the question remains - Which one is a standout performer?
So far the Nulon Ultracool looks pretty good to me.

Rocket.

Bathurst is my new location, but used to have the workshop in Narrabri NSW... water was still pretty good, but the price of buying off the shelf water wasnt as good as you can get... so that is a bonus for you there.

From my metallurgists training, it has been proven that soluable oil is bad for alloys, so keep that in mind for your Mustangs, if they have ANY alloy thats in contact with the water, soluable oil will affect them.

Tectalloy Gold is by clear the choice for me and for the head offices of Natrad and Adrad :P