Car Detailing - What products are your go to? - Page 55

**DFB FGXR6** · 17-01-2023, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0

Bugger, if I'd known about the virtues of Wet Coat when I popped in to pick these up on the weekend, I would have grabbed some.

image

Oh, and a question or two re Bathe. In the on-line images, the Bathe product is a blue colour, but the bottle I got is a clear liquid. Has there been a product change? A formula change?

And what ratio should I be using it as a foam? The website only indicates ratios for bucket washing.

I was also confused by the colour difference between the manufacturer images and the actual product. No idea why it's like that.

Gyeon recommend Bathe is diluted at 500:1, which would be about 20ml per 10lt bucket. For a foam cannon, I use about 90ml per 910ml of water, so 10:1. Being so concentrated, you could back that down to 40-50ml if you want.

https://gyeonquartz.com.au/product/bathe-2/

This website makes dilution calculations a breeze -
https://www.omnicalculator.com/every...dilution-ratio

**DFB FGXR6** · 17-01-2023, 05:09 PM

Right, Bowden's Snow Job v2...................

As mentioned in earlier posts, the original formulation of Snow Job was lacking in cleaning power and too thick for easy measuring. Bowden's claim to have completely reformulated the soap to address those shortcomings.

Like the original, Snow Job foam like a champion with thick, clingy foam.

But the elephant in the room is, does the new Snow Job actually clean? Um, well, I think so. There were a couple of spots it didn't touch that needed removal after the wash, certainly better the v1 but probably not as good as Reset, Snow, GSF...............

Slickness was medium level and the scent somewhat odd, like a commercial cleaning solution used to clean primary schools. One other slight drawback was some minor reactivation during the rinse process.

On the whole, it's much improved but still lacking compared to the benchmarks that are either less money or only slightly more. If you want a soap that's readily available, Gyeon Bathe from Repco smashes Snow Job out of the park.

**FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0** · 17-01-2023, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

I was also confused by the colour difference between the manufacturer images and the actual product. No idea why it's like that.

Gyeon recommend Bathe is diluted at 500:1, which would be about 20ml per 10lt bucket. For a foam cannon, I use about 90ml per 910ml of water, so 10:1. Being so concentrated, you could back that down to 40-50ml if you want.

https://gyeonquartz.com.au/product/bathe-2/

This website makes dilution calculations a breeze -
https://www.omnicalculator.com/every...dilution-ratio

Thanks, DFB. I'll start with around 40ml and see how I go. I did look at the gyeon website but missed that ratio.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJM83

Thanks.
Picked up some this arvo.

I did, too. Got the locals last bottle. And then I saw this on the clearance table and couldn't pass it up for $12!

**DFB FGXR6** · 17-01-2023, 10:09 PM

A couple of tips regarding Gyeon Wet Coat and other water activated spray sealants -

- The product will last longer when the surface to be treated is well cleaned.

- Try not overapply, a little goes a long way.

- Work quickly in manageable sections. For example, one wheel or panel at a time. Spray and then rinse immediately.

- Leaving the product too long before rinsing or if applied in hot direct sun can lead to spotting issues.

- On the bodywork, start from the top and work your way down. Apply to the roof, then the bonnet and boot followed by the adjacent quarter panels. Then do the doors and bumpers. Doing this way helps reduce the amount of rinsing needed to clear the residue from the paint.

- I tend to avoid directly spraying the product on glass, it can cause spotting on this surface.

- You can also use these products to coat exhaust tips and wheel arch liners, even really intricate front grills that would otherwise require hours of attention.

**FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0** · 18-01-2023, 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

A couple of tips regarding Gyeon Wet Coat and other water activated spray sealants -

image

image

- The product will last longer when the surface to be treated is well cleaned.

- Try not overapply, a little goes a long way.

- Work quickly in manageable sections. For example, one wheel or panel at a time. Spray and then rinse immediately.

- Leaving the product too long before rinsing or if applied in hot direct sun can lead to spotting issues.

- On the bodywork, start from the top and work your way down. Apply to the roof, then the bonnet and boot followed by the adjacent quarter panels. Then do the doors and bumpers. Doing this way helps reduce the amount of rinsing needed to clear the residue from the paint.

- I tend to avoid directly spraying the product on glass, it can cause spotting on this surface.

- You can also use these products to coat exhaust tips and wheel arch liners, even really intricate front grills that would otherwise require hours of attention.

image

Thanks DFB, all good tips. I particularly like the tip re grills, as that will be perfect for the XR8.

This may be a silly question, but where in the cleaning/detailing process do you use Wet Coat? After you've cleaned the car but before you dry it off? Or do you dry it off, apply Wet Coat, rinse and then have to dry it all off again? For me, that's the hardest part about most of the detailing products, is trying to work where to slot everything in the process to minimise the amount of effort, and repetition, required to achieve a good outcome.

CyberWasp · 22-01-2023, 08:19 PM

I have a few things to add to SiO2 Coatings as that is all I use on my cars and have been using them for a few years now.

I have not used Wet Coat but from what I have seen is probably the best of all of them on the market now. I have been using CarPro Hydro Lite and 303 Touchless Sealant.

As DFB FGXR6 has said less is more. It is surprising how little you really need to use.
I have had many friends and colleagues at work try it and when asked, they use half the bottle on the initial application. Noooooooo.

Also shake the hell out of the thing before use, as I found sediment of unused product at the bottom of the container. I was initially just giving them a 1 or 2 shake.

My 1st tip is to find a smaller spray bottle that has an excellent misting spray.
The objective is to use less by misting the spray over a larger area.
Once set right is it just one mist in the middle of the door for example.
Often the sprayer they are supplied with can be improved on a lot.

2nd Tip - Once you have such a bottle I actually dilute the Hydro Lite down even further and use it as a maintenance topper. You don't need much product.

3rd Tip - Maybe I have smelt too many chemicals, but if you look closely, like really closely. When you begin to hose the product off, you will see the reaction taking place in the form of micro bubbles in the water as you sheet it across the panel, until they disappear. This is in the space of a second so it is quick.
This is where the water pattern / direction you are using will help to spread it better by seeing this, and if you are leaving product on the car which will spot.

Once you understand all this and have your routine sorted, I holder a sprayer in the left hand and hose in the right and apply the topper to the car after a wash. There is no faster way to coat your car.

T3rminator · 22-01-2023, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CyberWasp

My 1st tip is to find a smaller spray bottle that has an excellent misting spray.
The objective is to use less by misting the spray over a larger area.
Once set right is it just one mist in the middle of the door for example.
Often the sprayer they are supplied with can be improved on a lot.

.

I found the original bottle excellent with mist. In fact, I hardly saw any liquid coming out, just mist, so its hard not to give it a couple more squeeze "just to best sure"

. And a small breeze sends the mist elsewhere. (I've seen a youtube review where the spray bottle came out as a jet, must have been a defect)

I'll keep that in mind next time. The car is so smooooooth all over, so I'm pretty confident it had the right coverage....maybe a bit too much in some areas.

Oh, and one of the biggest improvement I noticed straight away on the road was how crystal clear the side mirrors were....and still are.

**DFB FGXR6** · 22-01-2023, 09:19 PM

Like many other detailing categories, I seem to have accumulated a selection of different glass cleaners over the last few years. Most automotive glass cleaners are alcohol based, being safer on interior plastic surfaces and window tinting. For that reason, it’s important to not use ammonia formulations or you risk damaging your window tinting and staining plastic trim. Most Windex products fall into that category. For the most part, all glass cleaners are much of a muchness, with a few minor deviations to differentiate them from each other.

Here are the products I have used in the past and the ones I grab the most, all being alcohol-based formula’s unless otherwise stated and all delivering streak free performance when used correctly.

Gyeon Q2M Glass – This is the first “premium” glass cleaner I bought and one that I highly rate. I really like the Gyeon bottles, very comfortable to hold and spray, hooking nicely to my pocket while I’m wiping. The scent of Q2M Glass it’s high point, not having that “heady” aroma alcohol products tend to possess. It’s also super slick to wipe. Probably my favourite glass cleaner and the one I like to grab the most often.
Tint Safe – Yes
Scent – Pleasantly sweet
Bottle Sizes – 500ml or 4 lt
Rating – 10/10

Stoner’s Invisible Glass – This is one of the best glass cleaners you can buy, one of the cheapest too. This product doesn’t come in a fancy bottle or have an alluring scent, it just works! Invisible Glass is readily available and is a true workhorse product. Highly recommended.
Tint Safe – Yes
Scent – Unscented
Bottle Sizes – 643ml, 945ml and 5 or 55 gallon (USA)
Rating – 10/10

P&S True Vue – This glass cleaner comes in both ready-to-use and concentrate forms. The concentrate form is an extremely economical solution and is able to be adjusted for winter and summer usage. I tend to use this not just for detailing, but also for general around the house cleaning too. No scent with this product and like Invisible Glass, a great workhorse.
Tint Safe – Yes
Scent – Unscented
Bottle Sizes – 473ml RTU or 1 gallon concentrate.
Rating – 10/10

Carpro Clarify – The main drawcard I see with this product is the pleasing banana scent, desirable if you find other glass cleaners “heady”. It also has a nicely slick feel to it. Certainly a nice product, one I have just because I like the smell.
Tint Safe – Yes
Scent – Banana
Bottle Sizes – 500ml and 1 lt
Rating – 7.5/10

Carpro Eraser – While this products main role is as a panel prep spray, it can also be used quite successfully as a glass cleaner. Which means more chances to enjoy the delightful scent this product is known for. You could also say the same for Gyeon Prep, it too makes a brilliant glass cleaner.

Tint Safe – Yes
Scent – Hard to define, but very pleasant
Bottle Sizes – 500ml, 1 lt or 4 lt
Rating – 7.5/10

NV Clarity – This is another panel prep spray that is also used for glass cleaning. As a prep spray, I really don’t like Clarify as its high IPA content is extremely grabby. On glass though, it’s actually very good. No scent here, very much an IPA type smell to it.

Tint Safe – Yes
Scent – Unscented, slightly pungent
Bottle Sizes – 500ml, 1 lt or 4 lt
Rating – 8/10

Koch Chemie Speed Glass – Koch offer a few different glass cleaners, this being the RTU version. Another high quality glass cleaner, one that I found easy to use and offers good slickness. This is a scented product, one that is not easy to place, Koch Chemie describing it as “fresh fragrance” and is similar to their other interior products.

Tint Safe – Yes
Scent – “Fresh”
Bottle Sizes – 750ml RTU
Rating – 8/10

Angelwax Vision – This is a product I call a “sledgehammer for glass”. Vision is alcohol based but does contain ammonia, so it’s best used with caution. It also has an extremely pungent aroma to it, so be careful using it in confined spaces. And certainly don’t give the bottle a whiff or you will knock yourself out! Vision though has more grunt to clean neglected glass, especially so on windscreens. Never spray this directly onto glass, always into a towel. Vision is said to be tint safe despite the ammonia content, but I would only use it as needed rather than a regular maintenance product.

Tint Safe – Yes, but use with caution
Scent – Unscented but extremely pungent
Bottle Sizes – 500ml
Rating – 9/10

Autoglym Fast Glass – This was my main glass cleaner for a very long time, ultimately replaced by Stoners Invisible Glass and Gyeon Q2M Glass. Fast Glass is very easy to use and available in most automotive stores (Australia at least). Autoglym also say it can be used as a spot cleaner on bodywork.

Tint Safe – Yes
Scent – Unscented
Bottle Sizes – 500ml
Rating – 7/10

Optimum No Rinse – ONR is primarily used for rinse-less and waterless washing, but I do know people use this for glass too. I personally have not, but it can deliver streak free results while also being useful for other tasks as well, adding to it’s versatility.

Tint Safe – Yes
Scent – Berry
Bottle Sizes – 236ml, 946ml or 1 gallon concentrates
Rating – Un tested by me

Next, glass sealants.

**DFB FGXR6** · 22-01-2023, 10:17 PM

Another method for applying products like Wet Coat is to use your pressure washer to distribute the product.

Ignore the younger guy, he is way overusing the product. Keep watching for Yvan using the stream of water to carry a couple of sprays of the product onto the car, spreading and rinsing it in one streamlined action.

Skip to 11min 20 sec, then to 12.20 for the process in question -

**DFB FGXR6** · 23-01-2023, 09:17 PM

Following on with glass, this time polishing.

]Glass Polishing[/B]

Polishing glass is one of those next-level detailing tasks that can really transform the look of the car overall. Obviously, the main goal is to improve clarity but somehow it can really take a car to another level.

Glass is an incredibly hard surface, making it very durable and hard to scratch. That hardness also means it’s almost impossible to remove deeper scratches. While you may improve the appearance of deeper scratches, you won’t be able to totally remove them, even with the most aggressive of glass polishes and pads. I mention this so that readers can be realistic in what they can achieve with glass polishing. For that reason, polishing glass is more about deep cleaning the surface to improve clarity rather than removing scratches.

With that said, how do you polish glass? Just like paint, glass can be tackled in various forms of aggression. And also like paint, you can polish glass by hand or machine. I would also say that prep is key, so decontaminating exterior glass with iron removers and a clay bar is advisable if the glass is neglected.

Hand Polishing -

The first product that comes to mind in terms of hand polishing would be something like Autoglym Car Glass Polish. This is a non-aggressive option and is a deep cleaning solution designed for use by hand on exterior and interior glass. It is not suitable for use with window tinting, as in the film type, factory darkened glass will be fine. I really like how simple and easy this product is to use, simply apply to a towel and then working in circular motions across the glass. Leave it to dry and then buff away. The only drawback to this product is the dusting.

P&S Clarity Creme is another glass polish able to be used by hand. Use in conjunction with a foam or microfiber applicator.

Machine Polishing -

The next options involve more aggressive forms of polishing and are generally only suited to exterior glass surfaces. Because of the hardness of glass, you can safely skip finishing polishes and pads that you would normally start with on paint. Using more serious cutting compounds and pads will maximise your results, especially when using some sort of DA or Rotary machine.

But first, here are a couple of considerations to make when using a polisher on glass –

-Mask up the rubber and plastic trims surrounding the glass to protect them from staining.

-Another tip I learned from fellow forum member fordomatic is to lay a towel across the windscreen cowl to catch the dust and compound splatter, saving time on the clean up afterwards.

-Keep it moving! Try not to hammer down on one spot for too long, heat is the enemy here and the last thing you want is cracked glass. You don’t really need to be as methodical with your movements with glass either.

-If you don’t have a micro or nano polisher, you may need to cut in around the edges by hand so that you get an even, consistent finish.

If your glass is not heavily water spotted or is in otherwise decent shape, you can use a medium grade compound like Scholl S20 Black, Sonax Perfect Finish, Sonax Cutmax or the above-mentioned P&S Clarity Creme on a foam or wool cutting pad. Think Shine Mate yellow or green foam, Lake Country SDO Blue foam or Rupes Fine yellow wool. Using these combo’s will easily deep clean glass, removing minor water spotting and improve clarity.

The next level of glass polishing is to use a cerium oxide based product like Carpro CeriGlass, which is able to remove heavy water spotting, heavy contamination and heavier marks. These are best used on a Rayon glass pad which are thinner and help limit heat build-up.

From experience, CeriGlass is definitely a product that can be tricky to use. You need to mindful of supplemental water applications to keep the pad and glass cool, it dusts and splatters a lot and can be a pain to remove from the glass once you are done. The work is worth it though, CeriGlass will deliver the most improvement to neglected glass.

A couple of CeriGlass tips –

-Have a spray bottle with water handy to mist the glass before starting and after your passes. This helps with heat management and the removal process.

-CeriGlass can be used on a rotary or DA machine, or by hand using the Carpro polishing block supplied in the kit.

-To get the corners, edges or hard to reach areas done, you may need to do this by hand or with a micro/nano polisher.

-Masking is not optional with CeriGlass, the product is messy and will damage rubber trims if not protected by masking. Do your best to avoid getting it onto the surrounding paint.

-When removing the residue, I used a damp dowel and water to wipe off the bulk, followed by a second wipe over with Carpro Eraser or glass cleaner.

Having used CeriGlass a few times now, I can say that It’s a pain to use. Think of it as a sledgehammer, useful to have when nothing else will get the job done. For most, a regular polishing compound or P&S Clarity Cream will be sufficient to get glass looking great.

Now that you have the glass polished and deep cleaned, you are now ready to apply some sort of sealant or coating.

Top_Ghia · 26-01-2023, 09:53 AM

Stunning. I didn’t think you liked putting ceramic coatings on your own vehicles?

**DFB FGXR6** · 26-01-2023, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Top_Ghia

Stunning. I didn’t think you liked putting ceramic coatings on your own vehicles?

I typically don't, and I still don't know how I feel about it. I'm certainly not anti-ceramic coating, just it doesn't really suit my style of detailing. However, I wanted to push myself and try something new, the Jag was next in line for a big detail, so it became the guinea pig.

prydey · 26-01-2023, 07:23 PM

I definitely couldn't detail cars for a living. Nowhere near the patience required. Hats off to you DFB.

I guess it would be similar to how cycling is (or was) for me. Some people wouldn't want to even look at their bike after a long ride but I generally get off and look forward to the next ride.

Everyone has their 'thing'. If you don't have a 'thing' I highly recommend finding one.

**DFB FGXR6** · 26-01-2023, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prydey

I definitely couldn't detail cars for a living. Nowhere near the patience required. Hats off to you DFB.

I guess it would be similar to how cycling is (or was) for me. Some people wouldn't want to even look at their bike after a long ride but I generally get off and look forward to the next ride.

Everyone has their 'thing'. If you don't have a 'thing' I highly recommend finding one.

I'm conflicted here, I feel like a career change would probably do me good. I have everything at my disposal to just into it, but detailing is my "thing" and I'm afraid I would ruin it if I made it my job.

**DFB FGXR6** · 26-01-2023, 09:44 PM

Waxit have added 4 new Carpro products to their store with Release, Darkside, ImmoGel and Fabric 2.0 going live earlier this week. Reload v2 still on the way.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...pro-range?_kx=

I have ordered Release and Darkside, interested to see how Darkside turns out.

Top_Ghia · 28-01-2023, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

I'm conflicted here, I feel like a career change would probably do me good. I have everything at my disposal to just into it, but detailing is my "thing" and I'm afraid I would ruin it if I made it my job.

Living in a rural area I think the hard part would be finding the clientele willing to pay for the level of work you are doing. For the work you put into the Jag you would need to charge $2000+. I just don’t see that happening on the scale needed to work full time.
Then you would be left with the half day detail that I feel would get pretty boring.

But it is a service many are willing to pay for. I live in an area similar to yourself and a new detailer opened up a couple of years ago. They are booming and now have a manager and 4 or 5 full time detailers. They do car yard work, trade cleans(for fleet cars) and plenty of retail work.
So the market is out there.
But would turning your passion into your career ruin detailing for you?

CyberWasp · 28-01-2023, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

I'm conflicted here, I feel like a career change would probably do me good. I have everything at my disposal to just into it, but detailing is my "thing" and I'm afraid I would ruin it if I made it my job.

You could also look at buying cheap neglected filthy cars. Work your magic on them and flip them for a few k profit.
That would still be a hobby to do at your own pace, but you would earn money for the time.

CyberWasp · 27-01-2023, 08:30 PM

Do you ever think Carpro will find a way to improve on Hydro2 / HydroLite?

**DFB FGXR6** · 27-01-2023, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CyberWasp

Do you ever think Carpro will find a way to improve on Hydro2 / HydroLite?

In what way? Durability?

CyberWasp · 28-01-2023, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

In what way? Durability?

In any way, gloss, durability, ability to repel dirt ect.

I was just asking as many of theirs and other products are v2 so you never know what they are tinkering on. They also never jumped into the graphene scene either.

**DFB FGXR6** · 28-01-2023, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CyberWasp

In any way, gloss, durability, ability to repel dirt ect.

I was just asking as many of theirs and other products are v2 so you never know what they are tinkering on. They also never jumped into the graphene scene either.

Gotcha.

Yeah, it's probably up for an update by now. The only updates they have made recently is making smaller bottle sizes of the premix version, 50ml and 500ml in particular.

I have been using pre-mixed Gyeon Wet Coat lately, especially if it's going on paint.

The one thing I would like Carpro to improve on with Hydr02 is the occasional spotting that it leaves behind. Now, I have only ever used the dilutable version, so I don't know if this observation is related to dilution issues or if Hydr02 Lite premix is the same too.

**DJM83** · 28-01-2023, 07:19 PM

Torn with this.
Replace the entire lot as boot is getting on.
If im going to pull the lot out, im going to replace it (bloody pricey)
Wouldnt mind touching up the silver ring around the top. I have another gel dome to go on the top if i have to replace (factory shift pattern display was cooked)

**DFB FGXR6** · 28-01-2023, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJM83

Torn with this.
Replace the entire lot as boot is getting on.
If im going to pull the lot out, im going to replace it (bloody pricey)
Wouldnt mind touching up the silver ring around the top. I have another gel dome to go on the top if i have to replace (factory shift pattern display was cooked)
image

I'm fairly sure you can get reproduction gel tops for those.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/324720618828

**DJM83** · 29-01-2023, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

I'm fairly sure you can get reproduction gel tops for those.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/324720618828

Sorry mate i wasnt clear, i meant the metal ring under/around the gel dome. The dome on it is a repro. I have another spare one also.

**DFB FGXR6** · 29-01-2023, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJM83

Sorry mate i wasnt clear, i meant the metal ring under/around the gel dome. The dome on it is a repro. I have another spare one also.

Helps if I read the original post properly.

I wonder if the silver/chrome ring can be polished or refinished? The leather boot I would almost consider having retrimmed in real leather instead of vinyl.

**DFB FGXR6** · 29-01-2023, 06:53 PM

The Rag Company Ultra Black Sponge (UBS)

I never thought I would use a sponge to clean a car ever again, I can't even remember the last time I used one to honest. Having said that, this is not your average sponge!

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...ff17de27&_ss=r
https://www.detailstore.com.au/produ...efed5225&_ss=r
https://carcareco.com.au/product/the...-black-sponge/
https://autobuff.com.au/products/trc...k&_ss=e&_v=1.0

The Ultra Black Sponge (UBS) was designed with rinse-less washing in mind but can also be used with more traditional bucket and soap washing too. The sponge has laser cut grooves on both sides, creating a multitude of square "fingers". The theory being that contaminants are emulsified and forced into the grooves, which are then released into your bucket when rinsed. The actual sponge material is unlike any regular sponge available for a couple of dollars at a chain store, being extremely smooth dense.

Backtracking, I typically use the multiple towel method when rinse-less washing, also known as the Garry Dean Method.

The concept here is that by using multiple folded towels, once each section is used, they never re-enter the bucket. This means that the rinse-less solution never gets dirty or contaminated. From where I sit, this seems like the safest method of rinse-less washing.

However, the UBS is used like any other wash mitt or pad, you dunk the sponge into the bucket rinse-less solution, wring it out until just dripping and then make your passes across the paint. You then rinse out the sponge in the bucket, against the grit guard if required, and then start the next section. You could also turn this into a two-bucket method, using another water filled bucket to rinse the sponge out before dipping back into the rinse-less solution. For both methods, using a pre-spray of your chosen rinse-less product before starting is advised, which helps soften up contamination.

Once finished, rinse the sponge out under running water and leave to air dry somewhere clean.

Like rinse-less washing in general, I would probably pick my mark with the UBS. Overall, I actually liked using the UBS, certainly departure for me in terms of both soap washing and rinse-less washing. It also removes a lot of hassle in regard to towel management.

While we are on rinse-less washing, here are some pointers in regard to my favorite rinse-less product, P&S Absolute.

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...90877d66&_ss=r
https://www.detailstore.com.au/produ...2b8a34af&_ss=r
https://carcareco.com.au/product/ps-...inseless-wash/
https://autobuff.com.au/products/p-s...l&_ss=e&_v=1.0

What I love about Absolute is the scent and slickness it leaves behind. For the companies first foray into rinse-less washing, P&S nailed the user experience with this product. The one drawback of Absolute is its tendency to clump in the bucket. I found the following to mitigate this normal characteristic of Absolute -

- Shake the bottle vigorously before measuring it out.

- Use warm water in your bucket.

- Pour the concentrate into the warm water and stir vigorously with your hand.

- Add your towels or sponge to the bucket, swirling the mix each time you grab a new towel or re-dunking with the sponge.

When drying the car after the wash, I absolutely (sorry) love using a few sprays of Bead Maker to ramp up the gloss and slickness. The result is a clean, slick and glossy vehicle.

CyberWasp · 31-01-2023, 09:11 PM

I just tried the application method of SiO2 as per the video on the top of the Page.

Let me say that there is a lot of merit in that technique. It does a very good job.

I misted a highly diluted Hyrdolite into the water spray from a crappy garden hose nozzle. The ones where you can rotate around the different spray patterns. I used a triangle pattern this time and found it worked really well. I didn't use a pressure washer.

It will be interesting if others have a crack and advise techniques as this opens up many different ways.

Just make sure you use a diluted down product as it is harder to manage from the point of I didn't seem to see the micro bubbles as you do when you apply to the panel 1st.

I think this way spreads the product in the best way from what I have seen so far, so will try on another car when time permits.

**DFB FGXR6** · 31-01-2023, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CyberWasp

I just tried the application method of SiO2 as per the video on the top of the Page.

Let me say that there is a lot of merit in that technique. It does a very good job.

I misted a highly diluted Hyrdolite into the water spray from a crappy garden hose nozzle. The ones where you can rotate around the different spray patterns. I used a triangle pattern this time and found it worked really well. I didn't use a pressure washer.

It will be interesting if others have a crack and advise techniques as this opens up many different ways.

Just make sure you use a diluted down product as it is harder to manage from the point of I didn't seem to see the micro bubbles as you do when you apply to the panel 1st.

I think this way spreads the product in the best way from what I have seen so far, so will try on another car when time permits.

I actually tried this method for the first time last week, in my case using a pressure washer. Certainly an effective and efficient way of applying a product like Hydr02.

**DFB FGXR6** · 01-02-2023, 09:21 PM

Shedding Light on Carpro DarkSide -

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...40387593207897

Carpro DarkSide was launched late last year, and as usual, it took a fair while for this and other new Carpro products to become available to Australian customers.

DarkSide is one of three products that Carpro sell for enhancing the appearance of tires -

Perl - a water based Si02 enhanced dressing for a wide variety of interior and exterior surfaces depending on dilution. Perl's versatility sets it apart, suitable for use on interior plastics, leather, exterior trim and yes, tires. It's water-based formula does limit its longevity, especially on exterior surfaces, including tires. This has been a staple for many over a number of years now for its ease of use and the appearance it achieves.
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...iant=702292397

Black-Out - a tire and rubber polysiloxane ceramic coating that was added to the Carpro range a couple of years ago. This product has a 6-month claimed durability, ideal for those who want to apply something and not have to bother reapplying as regularly as Perl. Carpro also make reference to self-cleaning abilities along with high salt and chemical resistance. I have heard mixed results with this product, some like it, others don't see the point.
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...39390256136281

DarkSide - This is the latest in the trio, a product that sits in the middle of Perl and Black-out in terms of longevity, with up to 3 months of durability. In a technical sense, this makes DarkSide more of a sealant than a dressing. Key features include self-cleaning abilities, hydrophobic properties, UV protection and chemical resistance. The finish is described as a "satin black shine" and the liquid consistency of DarkSide is runnier when compared to the cream like consistency of (undiluted) Perl.

Application and Usage Notes -

- The success or otherwise of a tire dressing is in the prep. Slapping the dressing on quickly and thickly will increase the likelihood of the product failing or washing off earlier than anticipated. Spending some time scrubbing the tires with an appropriate cleaner will remove the buildup of dirt, oils and previously applied dressings or sealants.

- Use a stiff bristle brush with a tire and rubber cleaner to scrub the tires until clean. Look into P&S Undressed or Brake Buster, Adam's Tire & Rubber Cleaner, Shine Supply Wise Guy, Carpro ReTyre or even simply a strong dilution of APC. If the tires have not been cleaned recently, if ever, then continue to scrub and rinse until the product stops turning brown.

- While water-based dressings can be applied to wet tires, a product like this is best applied to dry tires.

- For application, use a foam or microfiber pad. I prefer foam for some reason.

- The supplied pump action dispenser has trouble lifting the product, in which case I recommend fitting a pop-top lid to the bottle to improve application.

- Darkside is a product that you have to work for, it doesn't have the silky-smooth application that products like Perl and NV Onyx exhibit. Darkside really needs to be worked into the rubber. That doesn't mean it's a bad product, just a different application feel. Work the product into the rubber using firm pressure, making sure to get even coverage.

- Depending on how heavily you applied the product, you may want to follow up with a towel after 15 minutes to level it down and prevent sling.

The final result from Darkside is very pleasing, producing a uniformly dark, rich satin finish. Additional gloss would be possible with a second coat, however I stopped at one.

Typically, longevity is not my main consideration when I select a tire dressing or sealant, mainly because I tend to chop and change products at each wash. However, I do see why the extended durability of DarkSide would be enticing, so it will be interesting to see how Darkside holds up.

**FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0** · 03-02-2023, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Shedding Light on Carpro DarkSide -

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...40387593207897

image

Carpro DarkSide was launched late last year, and as usual, it took a fair while for this and other new Carpro products to become available to Australian customers.

image

DarkSide is one of three products that Carpro sell for enhancing the appearance of tires -

Perl - a water based Si02 enhanced dressing for a wide variety of interior and exterior surfaces depending on dilution. Perl's versatility sets it apart, suitable for use on interior plastics, leather, exterior trim and yes, tires. It's water-based formula does limit its longevity, especially on exterior surfaces, including tires. This has been a staple for many over a number of years now for its ease of use and the appearance it achieves.
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...iant=702292397

Black-Out - a tire and rubber polysiloxane ceramic coating that was added to the Carpro range a couple of years ago. This product has a 6-month claimed durability, ideal for those who want to apply something and not have to bother reapplying as regularly as Perl. Carpro also make reference to self-cleaning abilities along with high salt and chemical resistance. I have heard mixed results with this product, some like it, others don't see the point.
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...39390256136281

DarkSide - This is the latest in the trio, a product that sits in the middle of Perl and Black-out in terms of longevity, with up to 3 months of durability. In a technical sense, this makes DarkSide more of a sealant than a dressing. Key features include self-cleaning abilities, hydrophobic properties, UV protection and chemical resistance. The finish is described as a "satin black shine" and the liquid consistency of DarkSide is runnier when compared to the cream like consistency of (undiluted) Perl.

Application and Usage Notes -

image

- The success or otherwise of a tire dressing is in the prep. Slapping the dressing on quickly and thickly will increase the likelihood of the product failing or washing off earlier than anticipated. Spending some time scrubbing the tires with an appropriate cleaner will remove the buildup of dirt, oils and previously applied dressings or sealants.

- Use a stiff bristle brush with a tire and rubber cleaner to scrub the tires until clean. Look into P&S Undressed or Brake Buster, Adam's Tire & Rubber Cleaner, Shine Supply Wise Guy, Carpro ReTyre or even simply a strong dilution of APC. If the tires have not been cleaned recently, if ever, then continue to scrub and rinse until the product stops turning brown.

image

image

image

- While water-based dressings can be applied to wet tires, a product like this is best applied to dry tires.

image

- For application, use a foam or microfiber pad. I prefer foam for some reason.

image

- The supplied pump action dispenser has trouble lifting the product, in which case I recommend fitting a pop-top lid to the bottle to improve application.

image

- Darkside is a product that you have to work for, it doesn't have the silky-smooth application that products like Perl and NV Onyx exhibit. Darkside really needs to be worked into the rubber. That doesn't mean it's a bad product, just a different application feel. Work the product into the rubber using firm pressure, making sure to get even coverage.

image

image

- Depending on how heavily you applied the product, you may want to follow up with a towel after 15 minutes to level it down and prevent sling.

The final result from Darkside is very pleasing, producing a uniformly dark, rich satin finish. Additional gloss would be possible with a second coat, however I stopped at one.

Typically, longevity is not my main consideration when I select a tire dressing or sealant, mainly because I tend to chop and change products at each wash. However, I do see why the extended durability of DarkSide would be enticing, so it will be interesting to see how Darkside holds up.

It's very hard to be critical of any of your posts, DFB, as, even if I don't agree with (very few of) them in their entirety, they're usually very informative, well thought out, and well presented.

BUT, can you please use 'tyre' and not 'tire'? We're not a minor island of the States. Yet!