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The Pub For General Automotive Related Talk |
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#91 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Sydney
Posts: 2,530
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I can confirm that you can charge using the under bonnet + terminal and the - lug on the LH inner guard. I’ve done it many times over the years because I cbf’d wrestling with that battery cover in the boot that never seems to want to go back in neatly.
That under bonnet + terminal is directly connected back to the battery in the boot, via a substantial wire. |
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#92 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 21,847
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It looked logically wired, but I’m not one to assume that logic naturally follows. And had seen self-indulgently cryptic posts from a member or two on “justcommodores” who were implying otherwise.
Trying to scare up two guards in Red Passion tomorrow. Looks like JJ’s have sold one of theirs, and the matching piece is at Ultimate Jap… It looks like the sill trim has to come off for guard changes? |
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#93 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Sydney
Posts: 2,530
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Yes, but you only have to drop the front section down enough to swing out the guard.
Oh, and the screw for the chrome gutter mould. The windscreen a-pillar trims just lift right out. Edit: the replacement guards will show you where the PITA bolt is near the door. |
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#94 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hervey Bay
Posts: 5,212
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Quote:
The front module was assembled elsewhere and was mated to the car somewhere near the end. In the meantime line workers could walk into the engine bay to add parts and bolt down fixings rather than having to lean over guards and a radiator support to do the same. It also reduced the potential for damage to guards and bars during assembly. |
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#95 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 21,847
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Trim screw sounds worth eyeballing carefully - thanks.
Disappointed to discover this evening that Arthur Tussik of YT bodywork repair fame is unwell, it’s not looking very good for him. Relevance to a VE Commodore thread is, he’s long been my inspiration for “having a go” at repairs. Practical and pragmatic; usually the two held each other in balance. |
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#96 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 21,847
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A question on the AC re-commissioning. With new condenser and drier, did Holden give a pro-rated top up figure for PAG oil as Ford did for the Falcon?
Googling it quickly only led to erroneous answers (equal to dry system) and arguments on Whingepool. |
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#97 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 21,847
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Replacement guard lines up nicely; paint is a reasonable match. They are something of a pain to fit with respect to the lower two bolts and releasing the sill overmould.
From the shut line above, and the image following, it’s clear the bonnet hinges are no longer good. I bought a used pair today for $80. Ex labour, the repair will come in around $2100-$2200 with coolant flushed and AC re-gassed. Considering that included a premium for matched colour panels and no trade discounts, I’m happy enough. |
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#98 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 21,847
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Couple of questions for the Commodore-knowledgeable.
First, I have to replace the bonnet hinges. The wreckers sold me the entire mount plate plus attached hinge. Is it normally required to replace it all? “My” bonnet is about 5mm back and 8mm down, not more than that. Then there’s this mystery rubber channel which fell down somewhere between removing scuttle trim and replacing the offside guard. I have no idea where it is supposed to go - help, please! Dirt has been left on to assist in orientation. |
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#99 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 21,847
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Touching up the rails tomorrow where they lost paint in the repairs, got a new radiator coming (Koyo, not another random used one), picked up new Adrad condenser today and had a chat with some up-to-speed automotive paint people about the bumper repairs.
So, after a few missteps it’s inching towards completion again. Special mention to my cat for chewing two inches off the washer line connector on the scuttle trim. |
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#100 | ||
HSV - I just ate one!
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Middle of nowhere
Posts: 3,111
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Auto elec friend reckons he works on 50ml for the condensor, 30 for the reciever-dryer assy
__________________
I dont care if some prius driving eco-hippy thinks its politically incorrect for me to drive a V8..... I'm paying for the fuel! |
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#101 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 21,847
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That’s a number I’m comfortable with - thanks. Dummying the new condenser showed me I need to replace the larger bore hose as it’s excessively distorted.
I’ve noticed the headlights have been designed for EEC mandated tab repair kits, very progressive. |
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#102 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 21,847
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This project is now substantially completed.
It’s waiting for the correct bumper to be painted and fitted, AC condenser install and re-gas, and possibly timing chains if the budget is there. But it’s otherwise working - noting there is a misfire - and back together, being driven. A work in progress shot, from the day I repainted the rail ends. A modern, Euro influenced chassis front that allows this level of easy dismantling, shows where Holden leapt ahead of Ford; structurally, it’s everything the FG could have been. The following items were replaced or addressed during repair, at a total cost of about $2700 including fuel and consumables:
Plus a few other bits where used parts came with better (but not critical) bits included - like a nicer condition undertray. Last edited by Citroënbender; 26-06-2023 at 09:23 PM. |
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