First DIY oil change (Or, You could have picked a better spot)

[Mondaveo]

Just completed my first ever DIY oil change in the dying hours of 2019 on the Mondeo.

I realised at Christmas that I'd accidentally missed the annual service date (it was due in November), and as it was just an 'A' service and I didn't want to miss 2019 in my service record, I figured I could try doing it myself. Reading my Haynes manual, and forum threads like rondeo's DIY notes was a big help in demystifying the process.

It turned into something of a debacle over two days, as, leaving aside that I initially picked the wrong oil filter in Supercheap, I had to keep making trips to Bunnings trying to find sockets and spanners that would fit. They must seriously be having a laugh with the access space to unscrew that oil filter. Eventually got the job done with an adjusting tri-grip wrench, but I intend to look for a low-profile 27mm socket like LordFordNZ mentioned in the other thread.

I picked the oil meeting the prescribed WSS-M2C913-B(/C/D) spec. Will worry more about what the oil 'should' be for the DPF if I come back to do it again. At least this bottle didn't have a specific warning against it.

I used just the OEM scissor jack to lift the car and placed jack stands under the big bolts at the rear of the subframe. The seams on the sill jacking points were a bit mangled from some prior joker. The undertray was fixed by only six of its eight screws and there was no washer on the sump plug. I put it all back as it was and will look into sourcing replacements down the line.

Think I spent about 6-7 hours struggling to get things apart on Monday with four trips to Bunnings, ending with the oil drained. About 2 hours to put it back together with fresh oil and the right filter the following day. I also changed the air filter (though not sure it was needed) and have a cabin filter ready to go when I feel like attempting that puzzle. And need to look under the back to drain the fuel filter?

Next service (Nov 2020) will be when my Powershift fluid is due to be changed, and the following (2021) will mark ten years when the coolant and drive belts need to be renewed. So not sure if I'll be attempting those, will need to step up my game to do so.

A pic from where I was finishing up (after nightfall on new year's eve, and under the bushfire smoke haze that's been slamming Canberra all summer)...

[rondeo]

You know to reset the oil service indicator - shut the doors, press brake and accelerator together to max, turn ignition on and follow messages...

Having done 21 oil changes on the Mondeos I now start by unscrewing the filter housing until I see the oil film start to move or bubble, then let sit for 10 minutes or so while I get prepared, jack the car up etc.

The last few changes I used a fuel conserving oil and consumption has fallen by a few percent, as advertised.

Re the fuel filter - I've done six filter changes and never opened the drain for water inbetween. There's an electronic water sensor in the filter housing.

Cheers

[ivorya]

When you have a spare 2 weeks to sit down and watch you tube!!

https://www.youtube.com/user/alan4x6677

[Mondaveo]

@rondeo - I did forget to reset the service interval indicator, thanks for the reminder.

@ivorya - I have watched a few of Mr Howatt's videos along the way and he's certainly accomplished quite a range of involved and uncommon fixes, very clever chap.

I've also found Mr Badgertronix has a good library for the routine service procedures - https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCoQd1dh55tqF-tbGuVnWPGg

[cobrin]

edit: Seems like that oil is on spec. It's hard to believe penrite and nulon sometimes with a change every month on the labels so it seems.

Funny timing Mondaveo, I'm doing my 245K kms service in the next couple of days, on top of that fuel filter/trans fluid/brake fluid and find a squeak in the F/RH suspension that's been annoying me. Other than that another year of trouble free driving (aside from that Torque Restrictor).

Happy New Years everyone.

[Mondaveo]

Originally Posted by cobrin

It's hard to believe penrite and nulon sometimes with a change every month on the labels so it seems.

Tell me about it. In fact shopping between Supercheap and Repco I ended up with two bottles of Penrite 5W-30, one 'Full Synthetic' and the other 'Vantage Full Synthetic'. Both given by the in-store recommendation systems and with almost identical text on front and rear labels except the Vantage carries the 'not suitable for DPFs' note. I used the other bottle since it didn't have the warning, though I'm not confident these aren't the same and it's little more than superstition...

[rondeo]

@Mondaveo - (I copy your style, what does it mean?)

I think we slowly ground oil and DPFs into the dirt on this forum sometime ago.

There was an Alice in Wonderland situation with shop front recommendations and package labelling.

I got a cold reception from one of the Australian oil mixers when I enquired further. I now use FUCHS, pronounced Fooks. There the reception from the Australian agent is also kool, but the fooking package at least agrees with the recomendation re DPFs.


I have a slightly Germanic style of questioning, which is the probable cause of the cool response. I'm sorry for that, but that's how it is.

[ivorya]

In fact, this penrite product is the only one that I've researched, so far, that actually meets the Ford 913-D grade.
Everything else fails in the Min T. when looking at the Lubrizol site.

From my understanding the Vantage name is exclusively used in Repco. Not sure why, do they charge extra? ;)

[Mondaveo]

Originally Posted by ivorya

From my understanding the Vantage name is exclusively used in Repco. Not sure why, do they charge extra? ;)

They actually were a tiny bit cheaper due to 20%-off sale... but yes, the unique name is likely an arrangement so they can set their own price (if it's not just an older/newer packaging). ABC's The Checkout covered it a while ago, e.g. Officeworks have a price beat promise, but for a given printer they stock exclusively in black, they don't have to match the price for the same model that is sold elsewhere in white.

Interesting/pedantic note about the Vantage labels. On the back it lists compliance with Ford specs WSS-M2C912-A and WSS-M2C913-B/C/D. On the front label this has been mistakenly transcribed as M2C913-A/B/C/D. Makes me think it possibly is an alternative label set made for a particular vendor.

Originally Posted by rondeo

I think we slowly ground oil and DPFs into the dirt on this forum sometime ago.

There was an Alice in Wonderland situation with shop front recommendations and package labelling.

Yes, I have referred to a few of those fantastic and maddening stories, and what a cast too, even John Cleese makes an appearance

Originally Posted by rondeo

@Mondaveo - (I copy your style, what does it mean?)

Sorry, it's a syntax that originated on Twitter and other social media platforms for addressing another party in a discussion thread (along with hashtags for topic descriptors like #oil #fordspec #doesntmakesense). On those sites it allows you to specifically mention someone/thing and search for those users and topics, on a forum like this it's just a misappropriation of jargon/shorthand/showing off

[bundybear75]

I reckon I have the oil and oil filter change down to about 45 minutes now....

I used to rotate the tyres each service but since I moved and I dont have a concrete slab to roll the trolley jack on, I haven't been doing that.

As Rondeo says, I crack the filter housing and let that drain as I remove the splash guard and drop the oil.

I use a https://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/6067 spanner to remove the filter

[NZ XR6]

Mondaveo, I did smile when I read your post. I find a socket with a flex joint and extension works a treat for the filter, although I have done it with an adjustable spanner. It took a while... Definitely leave it to drain after partially unscrewing the filter.

Lifting the car and removing the under tray I find to be the worst part of the job.

I use a Fuchs oil - Proflex on the recommendation of a local parts place. It never uses any, the fuel consumption improved and very few DPF regens. The Penrite Enviro C3 oil also seems OK.

These are both low SAPS diesel oils.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Mondaveo]

Cheers NZ, I thought the tale would entertain a few of the older hands. My wife was more than a bit exasperated by the end of the first day, ah well, we all have to start somewhere. (I'm sure she'll be delighted when I attempt the same on her Barina next week?...)

Thanks for the alternative oil recommendations, I guess those ones are specified for the Peugeot applications of this engine, certainly at least I saw the Penrite Enviro+ come up in the list. From what I saw the C3 oils seem to be pricier than the WSS-M2C913 spec ones, is that right? I'd like to look into the Fuchs products but they don't seem to be carried by most retailers near me, so a bit less convenient to obtain...

My fuel economy seems to have gotten a tad worse lately - I'm projecting under 800km to a tank, and the times I've watched the DPF load it seems to increment somewhat rapidly. My driving pattern has shifted to mostly infrequent short trips which I know is far from ideal for a diesel motor, and hauling a bit of junk, and that may account for it. I reckon I'll do an intermediate oil change at 6 months to accommodate. I plan to grab another bottle of Penrite 5W-30 this weekend (currently on sale at Supercheap) but will be looking at the alternatives so I may not use it when time comes.

[Tassie f100]

Originally Posted by bundybear75

I reckon I have the oil and oil filter change down to about 45 minutes now....

I used to rotate the tyres each service but since I moved and I dont have a concrete slab to roll the trolley jack on, I haven't been doing that.

As Rondeo says, I crack the filter housing and let that drain as I remove the splash guard and drop the oil.

I use a https://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/6067 spanner to remove the filter

I reckon you are now within 30 mins of most of us.Lol

[rondeo]

I just bought a new 20l container of oil. I was using FUCHS pro flex C3.

Everytime I buy oil the labels seem to have changed. Now it's flex23, somehow meeting C2 and C3 specs.

FUCHS do a Ford WSS-M2C9132/A5-B5 which for reasons not given is 'particularly suited to Ford duratorq..'

According to the the Lubrizol spec comparison tool;

https://online.lubrizol.com/relperftool/pc.html


(might need to go to the main Lubrizol site first if the link doesn't work)


Ford WSS-M2C9132/A5-B5 not the best for DPFs, question is, would it make a significant difference?

I went with the Flex23, $190.00/20l.
Not that worried about it, just curious.

[cobrin]

I'd say there'd be serious risk if used for an extended period time that the EGR and DPF will be adversely affected. It's not a catalyst oil so you run the risk.

Then there is the engine, check up the oil's spec's and look at its sheer capacity hopefully it's high enough to keep the cam lobes protected.

[NZ XR6]

Originally Posted by cobrin

I'd say there'd be serious risk if used for an extended period time that the EGR and DPF will be adversely affected. It's not a catalyst oil so you run the risk.

Then there is the engine, check up the oil's spec's and look at its sheer capacity hopefully it's high enough to keep the cam lobes protected.

C3 is HTHS >= 3.5 and A5/B5 is 2.9 - 3.5. C2 is >= 2.9.

My conclusion looking at this a few years ago, before ACEA-16, was C3 oils provide more engine protection than A3/B4 at the expense of fuel economy.

I use the Fuchs ProFlex and find it to be very good. There seems to be noticeably fewer regens than with the other oils I've tried, and the oil consumption is very low. The Penrite C3 also seems good, and is cheaper if you buy it when discounted.

[rondeo]

My FUCHS agent in AUS tells me PRO-FLEX is discontinued.
It's FLEX23 (C2/3) now, or else use ENVIRO.. for Ford.

However ENVIRO for Ford duratorq is stated to meet 913A and B, which is well below the C2/3 specs in all respects, including exhaust aftertreatment compataibility Go figure.

[NZ XR6]

Originally Posted by rondeo

My FUCHS agent in AUS tells me PRO-FLEX is discontinued.
It's FLEX23 (C2/3) now, or else use ENVIRO.. for Ford.

However ENVIRO for Ford duratorq is stated to meet 913A and B, which is well below the C2/3 specs in all respects, including exhaust aftertreatment compataibility Go figure.

I'm about to buy some, so good to know that thanks.

The Fuchs oil for Duratorq does meet A5/B5 according to this: https://www.fuchs.com/de/en/special/...-dt-sae-5w-30/

I suspect it's a mid SAPS oil that meets M2C913D, but I haven't been able to find any details.

[ivorya]

Originally Posted by ivorya

In fact, this penrite product is the only one that I've researched, so far, that actually meets the Ford 913-D grade.
Everything else fails in the Min T. when looking at the Lubrizol site.

I now have confirmation that Castrol Magnatec A5 meets the 913-D grade.
Min T was confirmed at 11.
https://www.castrol.com/en_au/austra...l#tab_5w-30-a5

I am interested in this one though:

https://www.castrol.com/en_au/austra...natec-suv.html

[NZ XR6]

Originally Posted by ivorya

I now have confirmation that Castrol Magnatec A5 meets the 913-D grade.

Min T was confirmed at 11.

https://www.castrol.com/en_au/austra...l#tab_5w-30-a5



I am interested in this one though:



https://www.castrol.com/en_au/austra...natec-suv.html

Interesting. I do wish Castrol would stop letting the marketing department name their oils. The SUV oil looks OK for a diesel Mondeo but it's not an SUV!

What do you mean by min. T?

[rondeo]

Yes the FUCHS duratorq eco (ecosystem friendly!?) oil claims 913D:


https://www.fuchs.com/au/en/special/...-dt-sae-5w-30/


in the specified list, but not the recommended list....etc etc


The lubrizol relative performance tool shows the 913D having very good score in all areas but aftertreatment compatibility. Maybe .. ...

[ivorya]

Originally Posted by NZ XR6

Interesting. I do wish Castrol would stop letting the marketing department name their oils. The SUV oil looks OK for a diesel Mondeo but it's not an SUV!

What do you mean by min. T?

The SUV is a C3 oil. I think they're just marketing it towards SUV as it only comes in 7L container. I think, the Ranger eg, has a larger capacity sump. Maybe 7L?

Min T (as described on Lubrizol) is Minimum Base Number.
I would assume this would mean pH value.
The oils ability to neutralize acid formation during the combustion process.

[rondeo]

' I do wish Castrol would stop letting the marketing department name their oils.' - NZ XR6

I was put off by Castrol's 'intelligent molecules' marketing.
The oil's probably fine but I couldn't bear thinking
about the intelligence of the molecules.

[rondeo]

Originally Posted by NZ XR6

Interesting. I do wish Castrol would stop letting the marketing department name their oils. The SUV oil looks OK for a diesel Mondeo but it's not an SUV!

What do you mean by min. T?

Agreed. The Mondeo is not an SUV, and is all the better for it.
I remember having a hard time replacing the Falcon wagon, what sold me
on the Mondeo was the feeling that it was not top heavy like the SUV's I tried. Furthermore the wagon had more interior space that the SUVs I looked at.


With regard to advertising, I'm looking for a job:



Hi, Kastrol here.

Independent tests have shown
intelligent molecules
actually cling to your engine!
It's because they KNOW(tm)!

They percieve
you are an intelligent
stop starter
with superior vision
and iBenefits
and myPlanToEscape,
instantly,
from the moment you start!

The STOP START INDEX
uses data shared anonymously
by millions
and it gives continuous protection for all driving styles -
conservative, hoon, idiot etc

[rondeo]

I got a bit poetic this afternoon, here's a bit more:


My Father Who art FORD

Was it my father,

after knowing mother,

****ed off
to a better life?




Well, to be fair I guess the Aussie Ford people got a German Ford and that's not going to be smooth.




No.

Was it for pleasure,
after a few beers
and choices?

Does my car
need a calcium battery?

Should the BMS be reset?

Does the oil matter
to my DPF?

Will my powershift
be OK?

Hallowed,
father FORD,

I beg to Knoe

[NZ XR6]

Originally Posted by ivorya

The SUV is a C3 oil. I think they're just marketing it towards SUV as it only comes in 7L container. I think, the Ranger eg, has a larger capacity sump. Maybe 7L?



Min T (as described on Lubrizol) is Minimum Base Number.

I would assume this would mean pH value.

The oils ability to neutralize acid formation during the combustion process.

Yes, the normal abbreviation is TBN, total base number. So Ford followed the ACEA specs until 913-D, then required 10 instead of 8. C1-5 are a minimum of 6.

I'm not sure exactly what TBN means - might have a look.