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#1 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mebourne
Posts: 20
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Hi. I am looking at installing central locking on my loved 97 festiva.
The features I am wanting is Indicators Wink. Quality of remote (must have led) Quiet operation. Low cost Looked at a few on eBay, not sure which models are best. I assume I need to get an alarm system as well as door lock. Anyway would be interested in knowing what kit models you guys recommend, what to look out for and any tips on installation I should be aware of such as what is the best spot to connect wiring, mounting points and what to look out for. Hope to take photos of job and post on this site when competed. Thanks in advance. --- Fords rock when in action. The best way to test the suspension and the comfort of the back seat driver. |
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#2 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mebourne
Posts: 20
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PS. Does the Festiva have a connection point in the existing wiring loom for Central locking? Thanks
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#3 | ||
Car Nut
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Canberra
Posts: 10
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We are on the hunt for wiring diagrams for our 98 WF Festiva, and if we can find them, we will let you know about the connection point.
But my initial thought is no, there is not an existing connection point, but can't be 100% until we look at the wiring diagrams. Central Locking systems are a seperate system from an Alarm system. I look forward to reading about your choice of Central Locking system and the install, and if you could, please take some pictures of the installation procedure? It would be something I would be interested in doing to our lil Feisty ![]() Good Luck, Kitty ^..^
__________________
Kitty's Garage: 01 MX5 - Kings & Koni's, Custom CAI, K&N, 18" Lenso's w/sticky Pirelli's, Pioneer tunes, worlds smallest Subwoofer 08 Hornet 900 - The Red Rocket The newest member of the family: 1998 Ford Festiva - known as Feisty ![]() |
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#4 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mebourne
Posts: 20
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Will do. The Alarm and Central locking is integrated. I have chosen a central locking system from Malaysia I found on eBay. Cost was a around $45 (including postage) and takes 2-5 days to deliver via UPS. I opted for the one without the Alarm horn as I am mainly interested in the Central locking but with the indicator flash. When it arrives I will take some photos and post here. I have not planned the wiring layout yet, Prefer to wit and see what is provided. I suspect I might have to buy some additonal wire Unless I can locate connection points in the existing wiring loom. We will see. If you find a wiring diagrame let me know. I did find an online manual - I will have a look to see if iot has a wiring diagram.
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#5 | ||
Car Nut
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Canberra
Posts: 10
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Sounds like you got a good deal on the alarm and central locking package. Will look forward to seeing more details on it when it arrives.
For that kind of money, I would be keen to put it in our Festiva too. Any chance you can put up the link to the online manual you found? Good luck with it all, Kitty
__________________
Kitty's Garage: 01 MX5 - Kings & Koni's, Custom CAI, K&N, 18" Lenso's w/sticky Pirelli's, Pioneer tunes, worlds smallest Subwoofer 08 Hornet 900 - The Red Rocket The newest member of the family: 1998 Ford Festiva - known as Feisty ![]() |
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#6 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mebourne
Posts: 20
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Trying to find it again. Its somewhere on my computer. If you find one let me know in case I can not find it.
You might find this link useful http://www.autolib.diakom.ru/CAR/For...NG%20DIAGRAMS/ Last edited by btf-ford; 02-06-2011 at 01:27 AM. |
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#7 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mebourne
Posts: 20
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#8 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mebourne
Posts: 20
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Update: Unit I bought was shipped out of Malaysia on May 31 and has arrived in Melbourne and passed clearance today Thursday morning June 2. Not sure if it will be delivered today or tomorrow. Still not bad... I give them 4 out of 5 on delivery and communication. Package is 0.9 KG..
Last edited by btf-ford; 02-06-2011 at 04:44 AM. |
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#9 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mebourne
Posts: 20
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Item "in Transit" as at 10:14AM. Looks like it is stuck in UPS holding. They are quick to scan but slower in local delivery. Delivery now scheduled for Friday June 6. :( As soon as it arrives I will scan and post instructions.
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#10 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mebourne
Posts: 20
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Chirstmas came early. Package just arrived. Well done UPS.
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#11 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mebourne
Posts: 20
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OK. My plan of attack.
I just looked closer at the options I have for running the wires to the doors. Good news is there is no drilling required. I have noticed that there is a wire entry point in both the front and back doors, which is good. The good bit is that there is no drilling required. The front door has a protective spring rubber conduit which allows the wires to safely pass from the door to behind the dashboard. However the back doors don't have the rubber conduits, but they do have an entry point which is good. What I might do, next time I am at a wrecker, is to grab a couple of front door rubber conduits from a wreck and use them to run the wires from the rear door down into the the door strut frame. They look like they will just push in to the rear door contection points and the rear door centre strut frame. There is a hole behind the plastic seat belt cover which I should be able to fish out a draw string and then use that to run the cable through and along the plastic sill and then up into the dash ready to connect the door lock relay and splice into the the wiring loom behind the fuse box. I could try and trace the door light switch cable and if possible run the wire along the inside of the frame but that would involve a bit more work as I would need to use a draw wire to pull the cable through but it would be a nicer solution. A lot more could go wrong in the process though (If the draw string breaks). I will get a better idea of what's involved when I finally get around to installing the actuators. I have yet to analyze where and how to mount the actuators. There is no instructions with the kit in installing them, :( so I will have to look more closely to make sure I select the best method. I will update more when I get around to doing it. Which won't be until the weekend or early next week. I still have not decided where mount the relay switches and control point. I will try and keep it close to the fuse box. It may pay to use double sided tape to hold the switch and control unit in place. I wont know until I find the best place to locate it. As to tapping into the wiring loom behind the fuse box I have a few options. Best option, I think, will be to buy a few snap on cable splicers. You can get them from an auto electoral place, auto-care or the like. I will also need a negative ground connection. A small serrated washer lug and screw it into the body which should do the trick. To be continued... Last edited by btf-ford; 02-06-2011 at 08:19 PM. |
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#12 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mebourne
Posts: 20
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Hi does anyone know how to remove the plastic door sill from the Festiva and get access to the wiring channel from front to back?
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#13 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mebourne
Posts: 20
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I found this copy of a workshop service manual on rapid share which has wiring diagrams. (But it is for a Fiesta not a Festiva]
Ford Fiesta 1995 Service and Repair Manual.pdf (8.06 MB) https://rapidshare.com/#!download|66...anual.pdf|8062 Last edited by btf-ford; 04-06-2011 at 08:20 AM. |
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#14 | |||
Where to next??
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Sydney
Posts: 8,893
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Quote:
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#15 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mebourne
Posts: 20
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The plastic sover that is locatar at the bottom of the door opening (The sill) A windo sill is the bottom of a window opening, the door sill is the bpttom of the door opening...
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#16 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mebourne
Posts: 20
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Ok I have worked out how to remove the plastic sill below the door. You just need to place a screwdriver under the plastic from the outside and pry it up. This gives you access to the under carpet area and you see the wire loom travelling from front to back.
I managed to get time to remove the front door lining panel. A straightforward job. Remove two screws on the front, one located in the door handle. Remove the window winder using a rag to place between the handle and the liner. Moving back and forth to dislocate the window winder locking clip. Remove the handle and carefully pry the door liner up and off. Front door - central locking actuator installation. There are two holes located at the rear bottom which are designed to locate the actuator. The actuator just fits in using the two screw points located at the bottom rear of the front door. No need to drill any additional holes. The door lock up/down rod is connected to the central locking actuator using the a thumb screw plate connector. You can get access to the thumb screws via another hold in the frame just below the door up/down latch. Make sure you have installed the master actuator (The one that has five wires) in the drivers side door. Cable connectors and electronic switch I have located the electronic switch and alarm module near the electronic computer just behind the fuse box. Its central and located where most of the connection power points are. You feed the wires from the cabin under the dash board following the speaker wire into the door and connect up the central locking actuator. A solid yet flexible strap such as the plastic straps you find wrapped around cardboard boxes is good top help you fish the wires out and along the flexible rubber conduit into the door. Rear doors (four door models only) The wires traveling to the rear doors are feed along the wore loom under the carpet and then up the B channel central door frame and into the rear door Passenger side Likewise for the passenger side you need to run the wires across under the dashboard and then into the front passengers side. To access the rear door its the same as on the drivers side. Remove the plastic sill to on the left hand side to access the left wiring loom and run the cables along and up the other side B channel and into the rear door via the door cabling point. Take care not to tangle the wires and make sure they are secured and out of the way. Avoid any potential to crimp or squeeze the wires, Check that the door opens and closes smoothly and the wires are not damaged in the process. You install the other door actuators using the technique mentioned above. Again there is no need to drill holes as all the holes are there in the right place. Photos to follow along with details of connecting the writing to the main power supply and alarm module. Last edited by btf-ford; 08-06-2011 at 07:05 PM. |
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#17 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mebourne
Posts: 20
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Looks like I can not post photos on this forum. So I have created a wordpress publication where you can find the instructions and photos. All the best
btf-ford Link to publication http://btfford.wordpress.com/ |
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#18 | ||
Car Nut
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Canberra
Posts: 10
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Hi btf-ford,
Just wanted to say your write up on installation is fantastic! I checked out your wordpress publication, great job! We will be looking at putting central locking in our Festiva and will find your instructions very helpful. Thanks so much for taking the time to write it up, and doing such a good job too! Best wishes, Kitty
__________________
Kitty's Garage: 01 MX5 - Kings & Koni's, Custom CAI, K&N, 18" Lenso's w/sticky Pirelli's, Pioneer tunes, worlds smallest Subwoofer 08 Hornet 900 - The Red Rocket The newest member of the family: 1998 Ford Festiva - known as Feisty ![]() |
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#19 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mebourne
Posts: 20
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Thanks. One option that I would add is to pull out a fuse box from a wreck and install and connect power to a blank fuse location in the fuse box. This is relatively easy as you can connect the new fuse location to an existing power source either Accessory supply or main supply. This would be a neat solution and allow you room to move so to speak. Overall the job was straight forward and much easier then I first thought. Getting that few extra spare bits from the wrecker made the difference. If you want an alarm you might prefer to buy the slightly more expensive Alarm and central locking kit available on eBay cost around $45 plus postage. Takes a day or a leisurely weekend to install. All the best... I will post more photos on the wordpress blog when I get a chance.
Last edited by btf-ford; 17-06-2011 at 03:09 PM. |
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