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30-10-2016, 10:35 AM | #1 | ||
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Join Date: Feb 2014
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Hello.
I'm hoping someone can assist me please. I've developed another noise and knocking sound (yes another one) this time seemingly coming from the front left hand side. Over minor bumps at lowish speeds is where it is most evident, but does not occur on the freeway. However, I've noticed that when I apply the brakes the knocking over bumps doesn't happen at all. This morning I pulled the left front wheel off and noticed a bit or a fair bit of play when I moved the rotor. The play is more at the bottom. Does anyone think this is a bearing issue? Here is the link to the video https://youtu.be/VZWMFFWnPiM . It was hard to do the video with one hand and the other moving the rotor , but the play is a few mm's more from the bottom. I'm almost certain this could be the problem. Any help would be appreciated. Many thanks |
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30-10-2016, 12:44 PM | #2 | ||
Starter Motor
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30-10-2016, 02:05 PM | #3 | ||
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the rotor is clamped using the wheel and wheel nuts (there is that holding washer). There is a flush mount securing bolt for the rears but after someone else (before me) managed to mangle the bolt I've removed them.
It's normal. edit: I find what's more important is clean mounting surfaces between the hub, rotor and wheel, it's often overlooked and a cause of vibration/pulsing in the brakes/steering. |
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30-10-2016, 02:27 PM | #4 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2013
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Last edited by rondeo; 30-10-2016 at 02:33 PM. |
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30-10-2016, 05:49 PM | #6 | ||
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Join Date: Feb 2014
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Thanks everyone for the tips and information. I will take it to a mechanic tomorrow for assessment. Silly me, of course the wheel is secured to the rotor and secured via the wheel nuts.
Lately I've had some issues arise with the car. When I took the wheel off the other side I saw that the rubber boot is torn of what appears to be the drive shaft. https://goo.gl/photos/Y5KZo4NemNsbyrry9 As for the knocking sound over bumps, could be Im assuming anti roll bushes, droplinks, wishbone bushes, track rod ends hopefully will find out tomorrow. |
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30-10-2016, 06:10 PM | #7 | ||
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that's your steering rack boot cheap enough and an easy job.
On a neighbours 318i I can't remember if I took a tie rod out of the rack end or took the tie rod end off to slip the boot over. Probably took the tie rod end off as it's easy but needed to check the wheel alignment after. He was happy as a pig in the proverbial cause it was the cheapest fix he's ever had ($12 generic boot) but the rest of the engine oil leaks will see to it again as he's not had them seen to still... edit: yeah roll bar bushes or drop links probably a bit more common but you never know. Control arms are HD, man when I was doing the suspension I was worried they had aged poorly but daum! they're tough and were in good nick and whilst in there the ball joints aren't bolted they stud pressed, so if they go I'd be up for replacements with removable bj's. Happily they're pretty cheap in the UK. Last edited by cobrin; 30-10-2016 at 06:16 PM. |
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02-11-2016, 07:31 PM | #8 | ||
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OK I've been to the mechanic and explained the problem.
He called me to come in and take a look. See photos: https://goo.gl/photos/PjmykWSM1o2LnMQBA https://goo.gl/photos/4hquBTRiX2XYMqC97 https://goo.gl/photos/ciXTMxffsZzEdzUE6 https://goo.gl/photos/aXqKE21ForKPBcfJ9 These pads were fitted in January this year they are almost brand new, with less than 6,000Km's since fitted. I had to get new pads done today as I didn't feel comfortable driving with the pads floating everywhere against the disc and piston. I will go back to the mechanic who fitted these back in January and ask for a please explain. The mechanic today told me he believes the brakes were not installed correctly and that's why the clips have broken he says I have a very fair case to complain to the mechanic who did the brakes and ask for something in return. Shame because the pads are still in new condition. Wonder what my chances are. |
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02-11-2016, 09:47 PM | #9 | ||
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Daum!!! how does one royally stuff up something like that?
Perhaps the apprentice doing it should have had supervision lol. You rule out that kind of thing when guessing 'what could it be' because it's so easy a job to do. Perhaps not any more. You'd have had to replace them anyway, it's not fit for service floating around like that. |
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03-11-2016, 06:44 AM | #10 | |||
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Quote:
In terms of the split boot on the drive shaf, the mechanic said it was more cost effective to replace the actual shaft than the labour to replace the split boot. Cost: $250 https://goo.gl/photos/UQ726R3PEyXbXr579 |
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03-11-2016, 01:10 PM | #11 | |||
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Quote:
I said both clamps in the pic but I should have said check for any that may be a reusable clamp type. |
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03-11-2016, 07:05 PM | #12 | |||
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Quote:
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03-11-2016, 09:53 PM | #13 | ||
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I'd start with calling Ford Parts Dep. and ask for the price and availability first, you may be surprised at the cost some things are actually cheap enough to source from them.
I got universal covers in the past ~$10 (for a '98 Corolla and a '96 BMW 318) from supercheap but going from their site they've slightly changed them and it's not what I'd like to use. I'd be looking at Repco and eyeball one. The universal ones you can cut the ends to suit the shaft diameter. Or if you've got the time ebay. a couple of large cable ties donski. Remember to take note of the positioning of the dust valve the boot may have. |
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